10 Most Common Transmission Problems

  1. Lack of Response
  2. Whining, Clunking and Humming
  3. Leaking/Low Fluid
  4. Grinding or Shaking
  5. Burning Smell
  6. Refuses to Go Into Gear
  7. Check Engine Light
  8. Transmission Noisy in Neutral
  9. Gears Slipping
  10. Dragging Clutch
  11. Problems by Make & Model
  12. Get the Problem Diagnosed

Determining what problem(s) your car has may seem like an impossible task, especially to the untrained eyes and ears of the average driver. It may be helpful to think of your car’s inner workings as similar to that of the human body.

For instance, if you have chest pain that could point toward any number of health issues, but if the chest pain exists in addition to difficulty breathing, then it is much more likely that asthma (or something very similar) is the cause. Automotive problems are diagnosed in a similar manner.

Problems that involve mechanical systems typically exhibit distinct sensations and sounds that act as indicators that a certain process isn’t working the way it is intended to. As soon as you recognize that something seems a bit “off” with your vehicle’s functionality, it is time to assess the issue and look for a way to fix it.

Diagnosing car problems yourself may seem like an impossible task, but try to think of it in terms of your own body. For instance, if your stomach begins to hurt without warning, you’ll probably start thinking of the last thing you ate in order to figure out why you are in pain. A similar type of thinking goes into diagnosing car trouble. The moment you start noticing something out of the ordinary, it’s time to start considering the problem and finding a way to fix it.

Automatic Transmission Cut AwayYour car’s transmission is a complex mechanical system that controls the application of power from the engine to the driveshaft. It experiences more wear and tear over time than most other parts of your vehicle due to the heat and friction produced by their many moving and interacting components.

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Major issues are bound to arise if your transmission is not well maintained and/or symptoms of a problem are not checked by a professional soon after they develop.

Transmission repairs or replacements are inconvenient, stressful and typically quite expensive, so it’s a good idea to pay attention to any activity that seems unusual. Adhering to the recommended maintenance procedures and schedule intended to prevent problems will help your transmission last longer, perform better and require fewer repairs over its lifespan.

That said, if you’re having some car trouble, it is important to know what the most common types of transmission problems are so that you can easily diagnose them and get them fixed. Here is a list of 10 symptoms of transmission trouble and what signs you should look for.

Lack of Response

Ever notice that while driving that the car hesitates or refuses to go into gear? If you have, then there is definitely something wrong. The moment a driver shifts from park to drive the car should immediately go into the proper gear. For automatic transmissions, you might notice that when shifting into drive or park that there is a delay before you feel the gear engage. This is usually a transmission-based concern.

Manual transmissions can have the same lacking response issue, but after shifting into gear the engine’s RPMs will surge, but the car won’t move as fast as the engine sounds like it’s going. This is usually caused by a clutch that needs to be replaced, but may sometimes point to a more severe problem.


Whining, Clunking and Humming

It’s impossible to say exactly what your car will sound like when there is trouble with your transmission, but one thing is for sure, you’ll get a “I haven’t heard that sound before” feeling when you notice it. The sounds that are produced vary widely between different makes and models, but the best way to describe them is that you’ll probably hear a humming, buzzing or whining noise.

Manual transmissions will emit sounds that can be described as being slightly more mechanical, louder and abrupt sounding. A clunking sounds when you shift gears almost always lies within a transmission, while constant velocity joins or the differential may be the source if the clunking is coming from the underside of your car.

As mentioned already, it is always best to get the problem diagnosed and repaired as soon as possible and not wait until later when you “find the time” or “have the money”. If you wait until later what would have been a relatively inexpensive repair can easily become a much more costly one.

Leaking/Low Fluid

New Automatic Transmission FluidA leak is probably the most recognizable symptom and should be repaired as soon as possible. Letting the fluid leak is one of the most common causes transmission break down. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is the life-blood of a transmission as it lubricates, cleans and conditions the seals and acts as hydraulic fluid. Without it (or even if it gets too low), the engine will seize up and stop working completely.

ATF is bright red in color, clear and smells somewhat sweet if everything is working correctly. If this is what you find on your driveway, then all that needs to be fixed is the hole. If the fluid is dark and/or has a burnt smell then it’s time to get the fluid changed or flushed and repairs might be required. To check if you’re running low on fluid, take your car for a short drive to warm it up and then lift the hood and read the dipstick (be sure the vehicle is on level ground). Unlike motor oil, transmission fluid is not burned off or consumed by a car so if the level is low then there is a leak somewhere that must be patched. It is recommended to top up the fluid anyway even if the leak still exists to make sure there is enough fluid for the transmission to function properly until you get it fixed.

Complete Guide: Transmission Fluid Leak Causes & Repair Cost.

To check the fluid level for a manual transmission, you must check at the transmission case (usually through the fill plug) – not with a dipstick under the hood.

Grinding or Shaking

A car is supposed to run smoothly and without any shaking, or jerking, and there is not supposed to be any grinding sounds. These all suggest that there is a problem with the gears. Manual transmissions commonly indicate problems by making a grinding noise or feeling when you shift into a gear. If the grinding occurs after engaging the clutch and shifting, this can be sign that the clutch may need to be replaced or adjusted. That said, it can also point towards several other issues including damaged or worn out gear synchronizes.

Automatic transmissions act a little differently. Instead of making a grinding noise, you will likely feel it take some time to wiggle into gear at first instead of the typical smooth transitions. As the problem gets worse, the transitions into the next gear become more jarring and involve more shaking. There are a few other reasons for grinding or shaking, but the appropriate course of action is still to have it inspected and serviced.

Burning Smell

Sign of Transmission ProblemsAny burning smell coming from your car is a cause for concern. Overheating transmission fluid is one of the causes of a burning smell. Transmission fluid helps keep the parts lubricated and cooled so that they don’t get worn out and damaged.

If the fluid breaks down, the system runs too hot which it results in increased friction and corrosive activity as well as the build up of additional sludge and debris. If this is not taken care of, the transmission will eventually damage itself enough to break down completely. The end result is an expensive replacement. Common causes include low fluid level or using the incorrect brand/type of fluid. To check for these, see the instructions in the section on Low/Leaking Fluid above.

Refuses to Go Into Gear

If the car will not shift after engaging the clutch and trying to move the stick, take a look at the fluid to make sure that it is at the right level. Other causes include using the incorrect thickness (type) of fluid and the clutch linkage or shift cables needing adjustment. The source of the problem could also be the vehicle’s computer system.

If you’ve already inspected the fluid, you can try resetting it. To do this, detach the battery and let it stand for thirty minutes. Then, reattach and allow the system to reset itself. This usually takes around thirty minutes. If this doesn’t work either, then it’s time to take it to a mechanic.

Check Engine Light

Check Engine LightThe check engine light located on your car’s dashboard is a great early indicator that something is about to go wrong (or already has) with your car, and in particular with your transmission. While the light turns on for a number of reasons other than transmission issues, it very important not to ignore this helpful warning sign.

There are sensors placed in many areas of a car’s engine that alert the computer if it senses unusual activity coming from a particular process. The sensors on a transmission can pick up on the slightest jerks and vibrations than you are not able to see or feel.

Take the vehicle in and have it inspected. They can take look and immediately tell what is happening through the use of similar diagnostic tools and the car’s computer.

If you’d like to diagnose the problem yourself (and possibly save yourself a trip to the mechanic’s) you can buy a diagnostic scan tool that is plugged into the instrument panel on the driver’s side and return a code that corresponds to the part that needs attention. Whatever you do, do not assume that the check engine light can wait because it might be warning you of a serious problem in the near future.

O/D Off Light Flashing On and Off

Transmission Noisy in Neutral

Luckily, a transmission that is noisy (goes “bump”) when it is in neutral could have an inexpensive, simple solution such as adding some fluid or changing it. This could do the trick, as it does for several other issues on this list. If that doesn’t work, the transmission may require professional attention to replace worn out parts, most commonly the bearings, worn gear teeth or the reverse idler gear.

Gears Slipping

A transmission stays in a designated gear until a shift is performed by the driver (manual) or the computer (automatic). If the transmission is spontaneously slipping in an out of gear (or simply popping into neutral) while driving, I don’t need to tell you that this is a serious safety risk. When you need to step on the gas to avoid a dangerous situation, you need power delivered to the wheels, end of story. The cause can be the link that holds the gears is worn or broken. Get your car inspected and repaired as soon as possible.

Dragging Clutch

A dragging clutch describes the symptom experienced by manual transmissions that involves the clutch disk failing to disengage the flywheel when the clutch pedal is pressed. The clutch is still spinning with the engine which makes it anywhere from difficult to impossible to change gears. This difficulty is accompanied by a grinding noise each time you try to change gears.

Fortunately, this problem is considerably less expensive to repair than many other issues. More often than not, the cause of this is too much slack in the clutch pedal. With too much slack available, the linkage between the clutch disk and pedal can’t pull the clutch disk away from the flywheel.

Has your transmission completely failed? Here are your 8 options to repair, replace, junk it, etc.


It is important to keep up a regular maintenance schedule for your car. Many times major expensive repairs can be avoided if the vehicle is properly maintained. This is especially true if you notice something unusual. The car should be taken in immediately for service.

Brushing up on your knowledge of transmissions (at least the basics) is highly recommended as it can help you save money by avoiding costly inspections and doing simple procedures such as changing transmission fluid yourself as well as making you knowledgeable enough to avoid being over-repaired, over charged or simply ripped off.

Problems by Make & Model

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66 thoughts on “10 Most Common Transmission Problems

  1. Neutral and park gears no problem, but drive, 1st, 2nd and reverse engages when in gear off and on as each one is tested. This truck is a Dodge B250 318 5.2l 2 barrel carb. 90,000 miles. I bought this unit 3 yrs. ago and have driven 1000 miles or so with no problems. It’s a high top van being converted to a camper. The transmission fluid and filter etc. were done and run fine until now. Will reset the computer and change the fluid’s again. What do you guys think? Thanks.

    • Because you are using it as a camper I’m guessing that you leave it in park and run it when you are sleeping to have the heat on. This is a problem because in park a dodge dose not run the the transmission pump so the trans oil does not heat up and can cause problems. if you get it fixed i recommend getting some wheel stops and having it in neutral when you have it setting and running.

      • So what you are saying is I should leave my car running in neutral anytime is not being driven even if I’m sleeping in my bed at home That way my fluid will never be cold? Your transmission doesn’t care of you are running in park or not running at all. That’s why no pump while in park. You can’t damage transmission or fluid by running car in park.

  2. No noise no movement any gear automatic transmission 08 f250 column shifts p r n d 123 what likely the problem happened after parked after race. And my fluid is full still bright red. No codes on truck.

    • I have a 06 F 250 tran just quit fluid level ok. I have 290,000 miles on it. It has been pulling good and shifting great. At about 50-60 it tries to downshift. I stop put it in neutral then in drive, it tried to pull at about 5 or 6 then I got po741 p0751 po766 p1744 p2700 p2703.

  3. I have a leak from my transmission the leak is light pink on the ground and does not have any smell. I have a 1997 Lexus es 300 with approximately 105000 miles. What do you think the problem could be

    • To Reggie7217, transmission leak is the vaguest way of saying it. There are many different places that a transmission can leak from, starting with the cooler lines which are the easiest fix. The first step to identifying a leak is to start by watching the car when it’s on, first be sure the fluid level is where it should be though to avoid any damage from fluid already lost. Try to identify the source of the leak, start from looking exactly where it’s falling on the ground, this can be easier said than done on a slow leak. Then go up and see where the real origination is, leaks can be difficult to find especially for someone who known little about cars.

      Things to check are if it’s coming from the bottom of the transmission, which could either be loose bolts or a transmission pan gasket, most likely is that or your cooler lines, trust me I know how it is, don’t want to go to some crap place that screws you but don’t know a whole lot. Good luck.

  4. I got a 2000 silverado 4×4. It drives fine and reverses fine when it’s cool. When it starts warming up, it seems to just not go anywhere even when I put it in reverse. Can you explain to me what is the issue

      • It seems that the 40L60 and 40L80M transmissions were prone to heating problems. The reality is that they sometimes respond to programmed error-handling software that tell the Silverado to shut down when the transmission fluid is warm.

        You’d think that the problem would be lie in the cooler lines, wouldn’t you? It seems to make lots of sense, but, looks can really be deceiving here. It is more than likely the pressure control solenoid — or another switch in the same circuit — that is failing. The solenoid is shorting to ground and causing the transmission to react by stopping.

        In a way, the transmission is trying very hard to go into limp home mode, but isn’t quite getting there.

        So, what can you do to fix this? First, have your transmission specialist run a diagnostic and hook up a diagnostic reader to the OBD-II connector. It should likely pick up a code for a pressure control sensor or module failure. Once you have found the codes, it is fairly straightforward to swap out the old electronics and put in new electronics.

        It is possible that the torque converter is going. Just the slamming and banging into gear could easily damage it and other parts.

        However, the PCS (pressure control solenoid) is likely the problem, there are other issues that might be having an impact on the transmission. Most likely, you will find that a check valve in the valve body is plugged up, inhibiting the flow of transmission fluid. Or, it could be a plugged transmission filter causing an overpressure indication or it may be a check valve, a plugged filter and, possibly, a constriction in a cooling line for the transmission.

        It may certainly seem like there are a whole bunch of potential problems that have to be fixed. And, it is true there could be. The only thing that is being suggested here, aside from finding the solenoid that is likely causing this whole mess, is that all potentials should be explored so that you won’t find that you have invested roughly $1,000 to fix the solenoid/sensor/module problem and that investment has yielded no real repair because it seems that the transmission is still having problems.

        All that said, some owners have found that the addition of a $1,000 transmission cooler is just the ticket to make sure this problem doesn’t come back.

  5. We have a 2002 chrysler t/c with almost 200,000 miles on it and when i would first start it up, it would start out in first gear then jerk into second and it would stay in 2nd gear even after stopping at a stop sign, and shifting into drive without turning engine off and starting back up after having been driven, the tranny would jerk into 2nd. the speedometer also stopped working. we replaced the speed sensors then it worked fine for about a week until it started acting up again. when it was raining, it would stop acting up, so we took a spray bottle and sprayed the wires where the sensors are plugged in. we had to solder one of the wires where it plugs in and it’s fine now. I guess when chryslers jerk into 2nd gear, the computer would make the tranny stay in 2nd as a safety feature to prevent further damage. But I think it does more damage than good cause i have to replace my tranny mounts from it jerking into 2nd so abruptly and it slips a little in 1st now, but it has almost 200,000 miles and still has no problem pulling my boat. it still has some life left in it.

  6. Can anyone please explain why my car cant go in reverse but can drive forward
    FYI: Makes noise when I put gear in reverse
    Nissan pathfinder 2003

  7. I have a 1996 GMC Jimmy, 2WD, automatic transmission. I’m the original owner and my Jimmy has approx. 350,000 miles. Original engine and transmission. My ‘check engine light’ has been on since I had about 40,000 miles on it. We turn it off for the semi-annual smog checks, then it comes back on about 30 miles father I drive it. Everything was checked and changed when it was originally under warranty. The problem was never found, so I can not rely on it for a true ‘warning’.

    So, here’s my issue. I was driving yesterday and my engine began shaking violently. The check engine light began to flash, it as never done that before. I took my car to my mechanic (who I’ve trusted for years) and he sad that it threw several codes stating that my transmission was slipping. Well, of course driving to his shop it drove fine so he wasn’t able to see the engine shake. By the way, it shook when I was at stop signs and with the trans in park – not just driving in gear. He informed me that trans work could cause me to need major engine work in the near future. I just don’t get it. How can the trans cause the nine to violently shake? Can the codes be incorrect sense the check engine light has never worked correctly and int reliable? Is my mechanic wrong about needing major engine work if the trans is, as he says, replaced?

    I’m frustrated as the engine has been amazing and reliable for 350,000. Oh, one note – not too long ago he replaced the fuel pump and has worked on my fuel injectors before. It felt as if my car wasn’t getting enough gas. It didn’t feel, to me, as if it ad anything to do with the transmission. I recently had the trans fluid flashed and filled. If anyone has any suggestions, or comments, they would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading this and your opinions ~

  8. I have an 02 Accord Lx coupe. It’s slow to shift gears and accelerate in Reverse, D4,D3,2 and 1. I just had a transmission flush & change. Even put in lubegard and Lucas transmission fix but it only works for about 2 days and goes right back to jerking into acceleration. Even had new shifting solenoids put in but still jerking. Any suggestions would be fine!

    • because you had a flush done on it all the sediment from normal ware has been kicked up and could be clogging the ports in your trans. You will have to take it in and have it cleaned. The shops wont tell you this but a flush is the one of worst thing you can do to you trans.

      • Actually Keith, if the shop is reputable and does business with honesty, they (the shop) will tell you! If I have a customer who wants an “easy fix” such as additives (Lucas stop slip; which FYI for the other readers, that product is BS in a bottle) I have no problems telling them the truth which is that there is no magical way to quick fix it if you have a internal mechanical problem. Any shade tree will be more than happy to fix it, but that’s more than likely with a junkyard unit.

        Also the only way to clean these “ports” as he calls them, is with the transmission dismantled, and into the high pressure cleaner as well as with the valve body disassembled.

        Not trying to get snappy, but as a female Owner and Operator of an auto repair shop, it is a wonder how many people believe in these things. Always get another opinion and if possible, have the mechanic show you what the true problem is.

  9. I have a Nissan car that has a gear problem, each time I change the gear the car will jack on speed and it will not enter reverse again. Please what should I do?. I have scanned and fixed the bad sensor but still giving the same problem when I replace the gear.

  10. 98 explorer 4.0 awd had another motor put in and now no reverse and wont move in drive unless already moving 1 and 2 work good drive and over drive revs high and wont hardly move. the guy told me, nothing i did would have messed with the tranny. but i had no problems till he messed with it. what do i do

  11. 2006 kia sorento v6 four wheel drive, the vehical seemed too stay in first gear and shifted and went bye itself into four wheel drive what would cause that

  12. I have a 2001 Saturn SL2, driving home Sunday had on cruise control going down I65, all of a sudden RPMS went all the way up to the red, and slowed down from 70 mph to 30 mph. I got off at the next exit went to gas station and bought trans fluid. Added some but it didn’t seem that low? I got the car back to my parents and we left it over night at the garage. Monday went to the garage to tell them what was happening. Later in the afternoon they called and said “we took the top off the trans, everything is in tact and looks fine. Cannot figure out what is wrong?” Oh yea I found out that the gas station that the car will not go into reverse? Any ideas anyone?

    • I ended up having another trans put in. They took it from another car that was in a wreck. Now 10 months later I get in car to go to work this morning and start the car, it will go in park, but when I put in R or D it slips to D3 and won’t move. Rolled out of parking space, pushed it back up and didn’t realize it was still in R when pushed it. Anyone know why this is happening?

  13. I have a 2002 Chevy Impala, automatic trans. I smell a burning smell when I drive it that I’m not sure what it’s from. Also I notice it gives off a lot of heat even after being driven just a short time. After it’s been driven for a long time when it shifts, especially into 2nd gear it jerks or shifts hard. It drives smoothly, but you can tell something isn’t right. I have also noticed a substantial loss in power in that when I accelerate (especially uphill) it just won’t speed up very well, even when the pedal is against the floor.

  14. My daughters car just broke down on side of road a long way from home and she said her car won’t go into drive or reverse but her fluid level is fine and she has never noticed any problems before now, could it possibly be her computer she has a 2002 Kia Spectra

    • Hi Sharon, I’m sorry to hear about your car trouble. If it isn’t any of the problems listed in this article and she hasn’t had any trouble until now, then the computer could be at fault.

      Do you mean nothing happens when you shift into reverse/drive or that you cant move the shifter at all?
      If you can move the shifter but nothing happens when you do, the transmission shift linkage could be broken/disconnected.

    • Sharon I had the same thing happen to my 1996 Pontiac Sun fire one day I stopped at a stop sign and the transmission slipped once then worked when I got it home I parked it and it stoped working no reverse wouldn’t let me outta park ended up replacing the transmission

  15. have a 2006 ford e350 van diesel/ while driving when on a hill shifts down and acts like loses power and is slipping/ also some times not on hills when it goes to shift if dies like out of fuel /any ideas?

    • in my experience add a body ground. take a piece if electric wire to the negative post of your car battery then connect it somewhere to the body of your car.

  16. I have a 2000 mustang gt 4.6… it’s a manual transmission… i hear a chirping or beeping whatever u want to call it coming from my clutch… If I just touch the clutch with my foot the sound stops.. but once I let go it happens again… is this something I should be concerned about? The sound isn’t very loud at all but I still don’t like that it’s there.

    • Sounds like your throw out bearing is making a racket. It should just be an annoying noise but no major problem. If you ever get a clutch job done make sure you replace throw out bearing and all.

  17. Hi my automatic transmission drives horrible when “cold” after its been sitting for about 4 hours it will climb in rpms getting all the way to 6. At that point I have to drop it into drive 3 just to get the rpms to drop down to at least 4 and stop acting as if its in neutral. It will finally change about 10 miles up the road and drive like its a branf new car at that point. I’ve changed the fluid and filter about 5 months ago and I regularly check it and it does not smell Burnt. Every time I try to explain it to a mechanic they act as if I don’t know what I’m talking about and say “I’ve never heard of a car doing that”. But as a daily driver of this car I should know that there is a problem here. Can someone please help me and tell me if its something as simple as the computer failing or is it a serious problem that needs a rebuild?

  18. I have a 2000 Mazda Protégé ES 1.8L automatic. I have had the car for about 6 months, and it has not slipped gears or anything.. Today I went to drive it, and it wouldn’t go into drive, like it didn’t catch on. Well I put it in Park, and revved it up, and put it in drive.. It felt like the handle and everything was hitting something smoothly, like a piece of cloth, and just wasn’t letting it go all the way in drive. Well I drove it and it drove fine, nothing seemed out of place. I went to put it in park. And it would not go all the way in park. It would be half way in park, and half way in reverse, but would want to slide into reverse when I gave it gas. Now the red thing that tells me it’s in park is red. So it’s in park, (Where it should be at least) but not all the way in park. I have never had this problem before.. I have to put it in Neutral to start it. Yesterday it started making a loud noise in reverse. But I still have reverse. Everything is fine. All gears work as fast and everything. Just don’t know what’s wrong with it.

  19. I have a 2012 Chevy Captiva, auto transmission. it recently started making the “clinking” noise, about 3 weeks ago. A few days back when I tried accelerating on the highway the engine made the noise but the car did not budge any faster than the regular pace. Last night it started jerking and continued to jerk as I accelerated. When I tried to reverse it refused, now it’s in service waiting on the new spare parts for the gearbox.

    Best thing to do in order to avoid what had happened to me is to take it for service, just get it checked out because it can be really expensive eventually…

  20. Hello. I have a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0L V6. When driving shifts fine, when I stop and need to change from D to R, or vice versa it jerks, sometimes it jerks very hard. Also it became very slow to take off form stationary position but then it drives fine. Please help figuring out this issue.

  21. I experienced the problem of getting off the engine twice in my Hyndai i20 automatic transmission car. I think I have to check ATF level and give a top up. Thanks for the information.

  22. I have an automatic toyota camry 2005, eachtime I push the gear to “drive” and I need to put back to “reverse” at sometime the “engine goes off”, and the same applies if vice versa, I will have to restart the engine and push back. please what could be the cause? … it’s urgent please.

    • i have that case before with my Mercedes everything just shuts down completely. i thought that it was a battery problem and so i replaced my battery with new one but still it had the same problem. i had i checked and the solution my auto electrician did, he took a wire connected it to the negative post of the battery and connected it to the car body. ever since then my car was fine and i was happy.

  23. I have a 2004 Honda Accord with an automatic transmission. The gears began spontaneously slipping a few days ago when the car is driven over uneven roads or train tracks or sudden change in elevation. It seems to be dropping down into first gear. If I let my foot off the gas and allow it do what its doing, it will sort itself out and I can continue driving. Does anyone know what the issue might be?

  24. I trying to get an idea of what is wrong with my transmission before I take it to a shop. I do not want to pay more than I have to. During slow acceleration my 2003 Honda Pilot changes gears fine. If I try to accelerate to quickly it revs up like it is in neutral. When it is in park on a hill and a shift into reverse it shifts loudly and sounds like a really hard shift. I have priced a few different things. The dealer says it is a pressure converter failure (I think). I was told I need a new transmission. They quoted me $5900. I found someone that will put in a re-manned with a 3 year warranty for $2100. I just want to be sure that it is not a solenoid ($250). I cannot find what a solenoid problem does to a vehicle. Does anyone know?

  25. Burning smell never noticed any leaks or puddles under my truck. Today I was on the highway and could not get th truck over 60 without reving up the engine. All gears acted the same from first to fifth. Low fluids? No check engine light or noises. 2002 Ford Explorer XLS Manual Transmission.

  26. I have a 2009 Infiniti g37x. Started lurches when accelerating from stop. Also started clunking when going from drive to reverse to park etc. Dealer told me radiator fluid was leaking into the transmission. Said it would be $15,500 to replace! I almost keeled over. Should I get a second opinion? I’m not having dealer do this work, obviously. Got other estimates of $8000 and $4500. A mechanic on Just ask.com said I should be able to replace the radiator and transmission for under $3000. I can’t find anyone in my area to do it this cheaply. I should mention that I live in the Baltimore/Dc area. My car has 49,000 miles on it.

  27. 05 Ford explorer 4.0 6 cylinder. 96000 miles. 2nd gear barely works (better after car warmed-up), and no o/d. O/d light goes on and disappears occasionally. Check transmission light comes on as well. Mechanic checked and advised need new tranny.($3,000.plus). Any similar problems ? Solutions ?

    • what codes did you get from the trans mechanic?? let me guess.. didnt explain. Get the codes from the transmission scanner .. not an obdii

  28. I have trouble shifting into any gear if my 2011 ford focus is cold. I have to let it run 20 min. or so in the morning before I can move the stick shift normally. Once it has warmed up (or if the temp. outside is above 70 degrees), everything runs great for the rest of the day & shifts smoothly. I’ve had fluid checked and was told it was at right level and doesn’t smell burnt. My clutch is working properly so far as I can tell. But morning lows are starting to go below 60 and I’m starting to worry…why is my stick shift so stiff when it’s cool?

  29. Hi Cindy. You may have noticed that on Oil Containers, the letters. SAE, followed by a number, like 15W-40. This indicated the fluidcy of an oil and at cold temps , it is at 15W which is runny and like Shampoo, whereas, at the 50 end, it thickens to a density like fluid that won’t boil under the higher working temps. What is happening with your ATM Fluid of a morning, it the out side air temp is too cold for the fluid to function until you warm the engine and other mental working parts so that the fluid is within it’s design tempraturs. Somewhere on the ATF container it may be stated the temp working ranges. Also in the Can Owners Handbook, in the section of the transmission and oil types, the range of best working temps.

  30. Hello, I have a Gmc Sierra 1500 year 2000, I had my transmission replaced with a new transmission for 1500 dollars minus labor cost. I believe I was screwed, because while parking the truck the gear will go to park but the gear light shows that the gear is in R. So when I start the truck it has to be started in neutral. Also while I am reversing the transmission is now humming, not good. My transmission guarantee and labor is supposedly guaranteed for three years but, I am doubting that because the mechanic told me that he will keep the transmissions receipt and paperwork, in case he has to return the transmission, all I got was a hand written receipt with his signature. I don’t drive far distances maybe 5 miles maximum daily, and I don’t drive rough or wreckless. I don’t want to return to this mechanic because I had to 2 days after the new transmission was put in, due to transmission problems. If i find that the transmission is not a new one, the only time I will see that mechanic will be in Court! Thanks for any input.

  31. Hey how’s it going everyone. I have a question for you guys. I bought a 2004 volkswagen Jetta 1.8T Gli 6 speed transmission a couple months ago. I was driving it about 3 weeks ago and my transmission mount broke so my transmission dropped out of place. My car started to shake violently. I had a mechanic friend look at it and told me I might be an easy fix if the transmission didn’t get damaged. The car was still turning on but I had trouble moving due to the transmission that was hanging out of place. I bought a new mount and put the transmission back. But now my gear box won’t work. It doesn’t go into any gear. Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong? Pls help.

  32. My 97 Dodge Ram 1500 was fine and then threw code po740 {or po743} can’t remember.
    Adjusted rear bands and Changed fluid – Truck drove fine for 3 hours and then “slightly” acted up and code came back, along with p1736.
    Replaced governors – Truck started having difficulties up shifting.
    Replaced wiring harness to governors and found accumulator spring was broken. – Truck Shifting became worse. – No overdrive.
    Replaced spring, adjusted front bands – filled trans with atf+4 {new filter, of course.}
    Truck seems to be stuck in 2nd gear, now. Each fix and the truck gets worse – not better. Have dropped pan 4 times and each time, fresh oil was used. The oil did not smell burnt and there were no metal shavings. I have found a few different things for p1736. {Manufacturer specific.} They are “Gear Ratio Error in 2nd Prime”‘ and “Second Gear Switch circuit Malfunction”. Any suggestions? I’m tired of getting ripped off by mechanics and I have already sunk a lot of money into this truck…. what’s a few more bucks? Ready to try anything.

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