Hyundai Elantra Transmission Problems & Overview

Launched in the United States for the 1992 model year, the Hyundai Elantra was an affordable compact transportation device that cost thousands less than a similarly sized Civic or Corolla. By 2001, Hyundai decided to play-up the “value for money” proposition by giving the third generation Elantra standard front-side airbags and a full suite of power equipment. Buyers began to notice the now-competitive little Hyundai, and popularity of the 4th (2007-2010) and 5th (2011-2016) generation Elantra began to soar.

Need a replacement transmission? Quality transmission suppliers can be hard to find. Have your 17-digit vehicle VIN# ready. Free estimates sent via text and email.

Is there something wrong with your Elantra? Let’s look at some of the most common transmission problems, and see what you can do to get your car back on the road.

Hyundai Elantra Recalls

1999 Elantra – 99V178000

Summary
On 1999 Elantra models equipped with an automatic transmission, the pressure control solenoid valve seals do not remain sufficiently elastic, resulting in a transmission fluid leak. This leakage can result in reduced pressure application to the clutches, brake, and kickdown servo, allowing them to slip.

Consequence
Such slippage can cause premature deterioration of the friction element surfaces and could cause the car not to accelerate, or not accelerate as expected, when the driver presses the accelerator pedal.

Remedy
Recall notification began on July 14, 1999, and dealers were instructed to replace the pressure control solenoid valve free of charge. For more information, owners can contact Hyundai at 1-800-829-9956, or they can call the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration’s auto safety hotline at 1-888-dash-2-dot (1-888-327-4236).

Hyundai Elantra Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)

2011 Elantra – TSB 15-01-012

Problem:
On automatic equipped versions of the 2011 Elantra, the end of the cable connecting the transmission range switch to the car’s shift lever pin is fastened to the pin with a rubber grommet. The connection between the shifter cable and shift lever pin is critical to ensure proper gear selection (including placing the vehicle in Park). If the cable becomes disconnected and the vehicle is not in the Park position, the vehicle may roll if the parking brake is not applied.

Solution:
To fix or prevent this problem, an “E-clip” will need to be installed on the shift lever pin as a supplemental method of securing the cable.

2011-17 Elantra / 2013 Elantra GT / 2013-2014 Elantra Coupe – TSB 16-AT-006

Problem:
The shift lever on some 6-speed automatic equipped vehicles may intermittently not shift out of Park.

Solution:
This problem can be caused by a faulty brake switch, shifter assembly, or a misaligned or failed inhibitor switch. If these components pass inspection, check the TCU and TCU2 fuse in the junction box in the engine compartment: Check the fuse for an open circuit. Check the fuse for correct capacity. Check the fuse holder for a tight fit. Check for loose or damaged wires. If damage or an open circuit is found, repair or replace the front harness/junction box (PNC 91-912). For Elantra (UD/MD), replace the EMS Block (91951-3X100) and retest. Other causes include a failed cluster, shift lock solenoid, or BCM (Body Control Module).

2001-2006 Elantra 1.6L / 2007 Elantra Sedan 2.0L / 2009 Elantra Touring 2.0L – TSB 10-AT-011

Problem:
After replacing the automatic transmission, or reprogramming the PCM/TCM to improve the shift quality condition, the adaptive learning function must be reset. The PCM or TCM contains logic programming to adjust solenoid duty and line pressure as needed to compensate for normal clutch wear over the life of the transaxle.

Solution:
The PCM/TCM adaptive values must be reset (erase) and “relearn” in order to provide optimum shift quality

2011 Elantra – TSB. 12-AT-003-1

Problem:
Some 2011 Elantra models equipped with the automatic transmission may experience a rattle or clicking noise from the front muffler with the brake applied in Reverse after a cold start. The noise does not occur after engine warm-up.

Solution:
To fix this problem and stop the rattle, the front muffler will need to be replaced.

Fair Replacement Transmission Cost by Vehicle

  1. Find your transmission model in the table below for fair prices from reputable suppliers. Also fair labor cost for local installation at a local auto repair shop.

  2. Get a free estimate on a remanufactured transmission by email.

Fair Remanufactured Transmission Price Ranges by Transmission Model Updated July 2018

transmission repair cost
Download Replacement Transmission Cost Guide PDF

What Transmission Does a Hyundai Elantra Have?

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What Problem Does Your Elantra Have?

Let us know the year, mileage and problem you’re having as well as any trouble (OBD) codes you’ve found. If you’ve been given a quote or paid for a repair, we’d like to hear about that too!

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Fred

I have an Elantra GT 2013, 88 000Km, Automatic transmission. Never had problems with it until now.
Transmission won’t downshift, neither in auto mode nor in manual “sports” mode. It shifts fine (1-2-3-4-5) then stays on 5th gear when I stop at red light. And then, since I’m still on 5th gear, I need to floor it (push the gas pedal all the way) for the car to advance. Sometimes the car just stalls when stopping at red lights. Then its very difficult to start it. I need to floor it when turning the key for the car to start.
Sounds to me like an electronic issue.. Sensor, fuse, switch, solenoid, PCM/TCM, etc.. I don’t know..
I will plug it tomorrow with my ODB2 tester to get some codes.

Eugenio

Did you find the issue?

Jennifer Willis

I am having the same issue as Stephanie. I was told the tcm needs to be replaced and reprogrammed. Is this true? How much to replace and reprogram?

Eugenio

Did they figure out the issue?

Ms M Jackson

I have purchased a 2015 Elantra on 7/5/18 a couple of weeks after the car suddenly started to give me problems. While driving under 30 mph the car just shut off no warning, the engine, oil, and battery light appears in the dash. Took the car back to used dealership and to the Hyundai dealership both run test in which nothing show up. Still having this happening and more frequently this a very dangerous problem and could cause a accident while I’m driving. The car also has stopped driving a little under 45 mph…no one can tell me that Hyundai is not aware of the problem when I’ve read that others have had this happen as well. I’ve been trying to get the car to a dealership for a full service diagnostic review but no dealership in my area seems to have a loaner vehicle. This has been going on now almost 2 months. I’m at my boiling point. Have contacted Hyundai consumers service and reportedly had them to tell me that my warranty is only up to 60000 miles.
And keep trying to get into the dealership..

Syed

I have a problem suddenly my reverse gear light means R from meter is vanished and light also not indicating any sign and but car is not moving than suddenly with lot of noise it’s gear up and move but light and meter display still vanish please advise I’m worried she is my life

jalal gheewala

I have 2004 hyndai elantra.Since last 20 days i am having problem with my car.When i start my car in the morning and put into drive it gives 2-3 jerks and then it picks up speed, it continuesly give jerk for about a mile till it reaches operating temperature and temperature gauge stabalise and stop rising.Afterthat car runs smoothly even on the highway at 60 MPH speed. I got car checked with my mechanic who checked transmission fluid and found it good.What should be the problem.

Suka Thaggard

I have the same problem with my Elantra 2008 model. The transmission does the same problem, it will jerk every now and than and when it does jerk it stays on the same gear i believe is 3rd gear and would some how reset itself!

The problem is intermittent. When cold works ok…. I would believe that if this was a mechanical fault it shouldn’t work at all???

Stephanie

I have a 2007 Hyundai Elantra. I’m having transmission issues, especially when its hot out. It started last summer, then it stopped acting up all winter, and its started again this summer. Almost every time I drive now, at some point my car will jerk and make a loud THUNK sound, and it feels like its slipped out of gear. Is this what’s happening? It’s much harder to accelerate after this happens, and the engine/transmission is much louder. You can tell it’s working harder than usual. After the car has been turned off and not used for a little while, it goes back to “normal” and drives just fine, until the jerk and THUNK happens again. What is wrong, and what do I need to fix???