- Lack of Response
- Whining, Clunking and Humming
- Leaking/Low Fluid
- Grinding or Shaking
- Burning Smell
- Refuses to Go Into Gear
- Check Engine Light
- Transmission Noisy in Neutral
- Gears Slipping
- Dragging Clutch
- OBD2 Trouble Codes
- Get the Problem Diagnosed
Your car’s transmission is a complex mechanical system that controls the application of power from the engine to the driveshaft. It experiences more wear and tear over time than most other parts of your vehicle due to the heat and friction produced by their many moving and interacting components. At the bottom of this page you can find a Fair Replacement Cost Guide on popular models of transmission.
What Transmission Do I Have?
Transmission repairs or replacements are inconvenient, stressful and typically quite expensive, so it’s a good idea to pay attention to any activity that seems unusual. Adhering to the recommended maintenance procedures and schedule intended to prevent problems will help your transmission last longer, perform better and require fewer repairs over its lifespan.
Major issues are bound to arise if your transmission is not well maintained and/or symptoms of a problem are not checked by a professional soon after they develop.
What Transmission Do I Have?
How to Diagnose the Problem
Determining what problem(s) your car has may seem like an impossible task, especially to the untrained eyes and ears of the average driver. It may be helpful to think of your car’s inner workings as similar to that of the human body.
To diagnose car problems yourself, try to think of it in terms of your own body. For instance, if your stomach begins to hurt without warning, you’ll probably start thinking of the last thing you ate in order to figure out why you are in pain.
A similar type of thinking goes into diagnosing car trouble. Problems that involve mechanical systems typically exhibit distinct sensations and sounds that act as indicators that a certain process isn’t working the way it is intended to.
As soon as you recognize that something seems a bit “off” with your vehicle’s functionality, it’s time to start considering the problem and finding a way to fix it.
That said, if you’re having some car trouble, it is important to know what the most common types of transmission problems are so that you can easily diagnose them and get them fixed. Here is a list of 10 symptoms of transmission trouble and what signs you should look for.
Lack of Response or Shifting Delay
Ever notice that while driving that the car hesitates or refuses to go into gear? If you have, then there is definitely something wrong. The moment a driver shifts from park to drive the car should immediately go into the proper gear. For automatic transmissions, you might notice that when shifting into drive or park that there is a delay before you feel the gear engage. This is usually a transmission-based concern.
Manual transmissions can have the same lacking response issue, but after shifting into gear the engine’s RPMs will surge, but the car won’t move as fast as the engine sounds like it’s going. This is usually caused by a clutch that needs to be replaced, but may sometimes point to a more severe problem.
Whining, Clunking and Humming
It’s impossible to say exactly what your car will sound like when there is trouble with your transmission, but one thing is for sure, you’ll get a “I haven’t heard that sound before” feeling when you notice it. The sounds that are produced vary widely between different makes and models, but the best way to describe them is that you’ll probably hear a humming, buzzing or whining noise.
Manual transmissions will emit sounds that can be described as being slightly more mechanical, louder and abrupt sounding. A clunking sounds when you shift gears almost always lies within a transmission, while constant velocity joins or the differential may be the source if the clunking is coming from the underside of your car.
As mentioned already, it is always best to get the problem diagnosed and repaired as soon as possible and not wait until later when you “find the time” or “have the money”. If you wait until later what would have been a relatively inexpensive repair can easily become a much more costly one.
A leak is probably the most recognizable symptom and should be repaired as soon as possible. Letting the fluid leak is one of the most common causes transmission break down. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is the life-blood of a transmission as it lubricates, cleans and conditions the seals and acts as hydraulic fluid. Without it (or even if it gets too low), the engine will seize up and stop working completely.
ATF is bright red in color, clear and smells somewhat sweet if everything is working correctly. If this is what you find on your driveway, then all that needs to be fixed is the hole. If the fluid is dark and/or has a burnt smell then it’s time to get the fluid changed or flushed and repairs might be required.
To check if you’re running low on fluid, take your car for a short drive to warm it up and then lift the hood and read the dipstick (be sure the vehicle is on level ground). Unlike motor oil, transmission fluid is not burned off or consumed by a car so if the level is low then there is a leak somewhere that must be patched. It is recommended to top up the fluid anyway even if the leak still exists to make sure there is enough fluid for the transmission to function properly until you get it fixed.
Complete Guide: Transmission Fluid Leak Causes & Repair Cost.
To check the fluid level for a manual transmission, you must check at the transmission case (usually through the fill plug) – not with a dipstick under the hood.
Grinding or Shaking
A car is supposed to run smoothly and without any shaking, or jerking, and there is not supposed to be any grinding sounds. These all suggest that there is a problem with the gears. Manual transmissions commonly indicate problems by making a grinding noise or feeling when you shift into a gear. If the grinding occurs after engaging the clutch and shifting, this can be sign that the clutch may need to be replaced or adjusted. That said, it can also point towards several other issues including damaged or worn out gear synchronizes.
Automatic transmissions act a little differently. Instead of making a grinding noise, you will likely feel it take some time to wiggle into gear at first instead of the typical smooth transitions. As the problem gets worse, the transitions into the next gear become more jarring and involve more shaking. There are a few other reasons for grinding or shaking, but the appropriate course of action is still to have it inspected and serviced.
Any burning smell coming from your car is a cause for concern. Overheating transmission fluid is one of the causes of a burning smell. Transmission fluid helps keep the parts lubricated and cooled so that they don’t get worn out and damaged.
If the fluid breaks down, the system runs too hot which it results in increased friction and corrosive activity as well as the build up of additional sludge and debris. If this is not taken care of, the transmission will eventually damage itself enough to break down completely. The end result is an expensive replacement. Common causes include low fluid level or using the incorrect brand/type of fluid. To check for these, see the instructions in the section on Low/Leaking Fluid above.
Refuses to Go Into Gear
If the car will not shift after engaging the clutch and trying to move the stick, take a look at the fluid to make sure that it is at the right level. Other causes include using the incorrect thickness (type) of fluid and the clutch linkage or shift cables needing adjustment. The source of the problem could also be the vehicle’s computer system.
If you’ve already inspected the fluid, you can try resetting it. To do this, detach the battery and let it stand for thirty minutes. Then, reattach and allow the system to reset itself. This usually takes around thirty minutes. If this doesn’t work either, then it’s time to take it to a mechanic.
Check Engine Light
The check engine light located on your car’s dashboard is a great early indicator that something is about to go wrong (or already has) with your car, and in particular with your transmission. While the light turns on for a number of reasons other than transmission issues, it very important not to ignore this helpful warning sign.
There are sensors placed in many areas of a car’s engine that alert the computer if it senses unusual activity coming from a particular process. The sensors on a transmission can pick up on the slightest jerks and vibrations than you are not able to see or feel.
Take the vehicle in and have it inspected. They can take look and immediately tell what is happening through the use of similar diagnostic tools and the car’s computer. You can also view a list of common transmission diagnostic trouble codes.
If you’d like to diagnose the problem yourself (and possibly save yourself a trip to the mechanic’s) you can buy a diagnostic scan tool that is plugged into the instrument panel on the driver’s side and return a code that corresponds to the part that needs attention. Whatever you do, do not assume that the check engine light can wait because it might be warning you of a serious problem in the near future.
O/D Off Light Flashing On and Off
Transmission Noisy in Neutral
Luckily, a transmission that is noisy (goes “bump”) when it is in neutral could have an inexpensive, simple solution such as adding some fluid or changing it. This could do the trick, as it does for several other issues on this list. If that doesn’t work, the transmission may require professional attention to replace worn out parts, most commonly the bearings, worn gear teeth or the reverse idler gear.
A transmission stays in a designated gear until a shift is performed by the driver (manual) or the computer (automatic). If the transmission is spontaneously slipping in an out of gear (or simply popping into neutral) while driving, I don’t need to tell you that this is a serious safety risk. When you need to step on the gas to avoid a dangerous situation, you need power delivered to the wheels, end of story. The cause can be the link that holds the gears is worn or broken. Get your car inspected and repaired as soon as possible.
A dragging clutch describes the symptom experienced by manual transmissions that involves the clutch disk failing to disengage the flywheel when the clutch pedal is pressed. The clutch is still spinning with the engine which makes it anywhere from difficult to impossible to change gears. This difficulty is accompanied by a grinding noise each time you try to change gears.
Fortunately, this problem is considerably less expensive to repair than many other issues. More often than not, the cause of this is too much slack in the clutch pedal. With too much slack available, the linkage between the clutch disk and pedal can’t pull the clutch disk away from the flywheel.
Has your transmission completely failed? Here are your 8 options to repair, replace, junk it, etc.
How Much Does a Remanufactured Transmission Cost?
On average, a remanufactured transmission will cost between $1,300 and $3,400, depending on the make and model of your vehicle. The cost of labor to install it is in addition to the price of the unit and will typically run between $400 and $800.
It is more expensive to replace your transmission with a reman than to have your transmission rebuilt for almost all makes & models.
However, if there is significant internal damage, the additional components and time required to get it back on the road may cause the final price of a transmission rebuild to be higher than a remanufactured transmission.
Here are the other differences between rebuilt vs. remanufactured transmissions.
It is important to keep up a regular maintenance schedule for your car. Many times major expensive repairs can be avoided if the vehicle is properly maintained. This is especially true if you notice something unusual. The car should be taken in immediately for service.
Brushing up on your knowledge of transmissions (at least the basics) is highly recommended as it can help you save money by avoiding costly inspections and doing simple procedures such as changing transmission fluid yourself as well as making you knowledgeable enough to avoid being over-repaired, over charged or simply ripped off.
What Transmission Do I Have?
More Information by Transmission Type
Reman Transmission Pricing Table
|Transmission||Street Smart Transmission|
|4L60E / 4L65E||2100|
|4T45E / 4T40E||1935|
|5L40E (Exc. BMW)||2453|
|6T40 / 6T45||2432|
|6T75E / 6T70||2432|
|6L80 / 6L90||2559|
|4R100 / E4OD||2226|
|AX4N / AX4S||2037|
|FNR5 / AWTF-80||2148|
|6F50 / 6F35||2480|
|W5A580 / NAG1||2589|
Problems by Make & Model
Full Transmission DTC Codes Table
|U1000||Cannot Communicate with TCM / Class 2 Communications Failure|
|U0101||Lost Communication with TCM|
|U0402||Invalid Data Received From Transmission Control Module|
|P0218||Transmission Over Temperature Condition|
|P0700||Transmission Control System (MIL Request)|
|P0701||Transmission Control System Range/Performance|
|P0702||Transmission Control System Electrical|
|P0703||Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit|
|P0704||Clutch Switch In put Circuit Malfunction|
|P0705||Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)|
|P0706||Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0707||Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input|
|P0708||Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input|
|P0709||Transmission Range Sensor Circuit intermittent|
|P0710||Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit|
|P0711||Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0712||Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input|
|P0713||Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input|
|P0714||Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0715|
|P0715||Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit|
|P0716||Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/PerformanceÂ|
|P0717||Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal|
|P0718||Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent|
|P0719||Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Low|
|P0720||Output Speed Sensor Circuit|
|P0721||Output Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0722||Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal|
|P0723||Output Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent|
|P0724||Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit High|
|P0725||Engine Speed Input Circuit|
|P0726||Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0727||Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal|
|P0728||Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent|
|P0729||Gear 6 Incorrect Ratio|
|P0730||Incorrect Gear Ratio|
|P0731||Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio|
|P0732||Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio|
|P0733||Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio|
|P0734||Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio|
|P0735||Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio|
|P0736||Reverse Incorrect Ratio|
|P0738||TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit|
|P0739||TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit Low|
|P0740||Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction|
|P0741||Torque Converter Clutch Circuit|
|P0742||Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On|
|P0743||Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical|
|P0744||Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent|
|P0745||Pressure Control Solenoid 'A'|
|P0746||Pressure Control Solenoid 'A' Performance or Stuck Off|
|P0747||Pressure Control Solenoid 'A' Stuck On|
|P0748||Pressure Control Solenoid 'A' Electrical|
|P0749||Pressure Control Solenoid 'A' Intermittent|
|P0750||Shift Solenoid 'A'|
|P0751||Shift Solenoid 'A' Performance or Stuck Off|
|P0752||Shift Solenoid 'A' Stuck On|
|P0753||Shift Solenoid 'A' Electrical|
|P0754||Shift Solenoid 'A' Intermittent|
|P0755||Shift Solenoid 'B'|
|P0756||Shift Solenoid 'B' Performance or Stuck Off|
|P0757||Shift Solenoid 'B' Stuck On|
|P0758||Shift Solenoid 'B' Electrical|
|P0759||Shift Solenoid 'B' Intermittent|
|P0760||Shift Solenoid 'C'|
|P0761||Shift Solenoid 'C' Performance or Stuck Off|
|P0762||Shift Solenoid 'C' Stuck On|
|P0763||Shift Solenoid 'C' Electrical|
|P0764||Shift Solenoid 'C' Intermittent|
|P0765||Shift Solenoid 'D'|
|P0766||Shift Solenoid 'D' Performance or Stuck Off|
|P0767||Shift Solenoid 'D' Stuck On|
|P0768||Shift Solenoid 'D' Electrical|
|P0769||Shift Solenoid 'D' Intermittent|
|P0770||Shift Solenoid 'E'|
|P0771||Shift Solenoid 'E' Performance or Stuck Off|
|P0772||Shift Solenoid 'E' Stuck On|
|P0773||Shift Solenoid 'E' Electrical|
|P0774||Shift Solenoid 'E' Intermittent|
|P0775||Pressure Control Solenoid 'B'|
|P0776||Pressure Control Solenoid 'B' Performance or Stuck Off|
|P0777||Pressure Control Solenoid 'B' Stuck On|
|P0778||Pressure Control Solenoid 'B' Electrical|
|P0779||Pressure Control Solenoid 'B' Intermittent|
|P0786||Shift/Timing Solenoid Range/Performance|
|P0787||Shift/Timing Solenoid Low|
|P0788||Shift/Timing Solenoid High|
|P0789||Shift/Timing Solenoid Intermittent|
|P0790||Normal/Performance Switch Circuit|
|P0791||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit|
|P0792||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0793||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal|
|P0794||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent|
|P0795||Pressure Control Solenoid 'C'|
|P0796||Pressure Control Solenoid 'C' Performance or Stuck off|
|P0797||Pressure Control Solenoid 'C' Stuck On|
|P0798||Pressure Control Solenoid 'C' Electrical|
|P0799||Pressure Control Solenoid 'C' Intermittent|
|P0810||Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position Switch|
|P0811||Maximum Adaptive and Long-Term Shift Times|
|P0812||Transmission Fluid Overtemperature|
|P0813||Torque Control Solenoid Malfunction|
|P0814||Torque Converter Overstressed|
|P0816||Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position Switch Park/Neutral with Drive Ratio|
|P0817||Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position Switch Reverse with Drive Ratio|
|P0818||Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position Switch Drive without Drive Ratio|
|P0819||Internal Mode Switch No Start/Wrong Range|
|P0820||Internal Mode Switch Circuit A Low|
|P0802||Transmission Control System Request Circuit/Open|
|P0812||Reverse Input Circuit|
|P0813||Reverse Output Circuit|
|P0814||Transmission Range Display Circuit|
|P0816||Downshift Switch Circuit|
|P0817||Starter Disable Circuit|
|P0819||Up and Down Shift Switch to Transmission Range Correlation|
|P0820||Gear Lever X-Y Position Sensor Circuit|
|P0821||Gear Lever X Position Circuit|
|P0822||Gear Lever Y Position Circuit|
|P0823||Gear Lever X Position Circuit Intermittent|
|P0824||Gear Lever Y Position Circuit Intermittent|
|P0825||Gear Lever Push-Pull Switch (Shift Anticipate)|
|P0826||Up and Down Shift Switch Circuit|
|P0827||Up and Down Shift Switch Circuit Low|
|P0840||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch A|
|P0841||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0842||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low|
|P0843||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch A Circuit High|
|P0844||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent|
|P0845||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch B Circuit|
|P0846||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0847||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low|
|P0848||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch B Circuit High|
|P0849||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch B Circuit Intermittent|
|P0850||Park/Neutral Switch Input Circuit|
|P0851||Park/Neutral Switch Input Circuit Low|
|P0852||Park/Neutral Switch Input Circuit High|
|P0853||Drive Switch Input Circuit|
|P0854||Drive Switch Input Circuit Low|
|P0856||Traction Control Input Signal|
|P0857||Traction Control Input Signal Range/Performance|
|P0858||Traction Control Input Signal Low|
|P0859||Traction Control Input Signal High|
|P0860||Gear Shift Module Communication Circuit|
|P0861||Gear Shift Module Communication Circuit Low|
|P0862||Gear Shift Module Communication Circuit High|
|P0863||TCM Communication Circuit|
|P0864||TCM Communication Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0865||TCM Communication Circuit Low|
|P0866||TCM Communication Circuit High|
|P0867||Transmission Fluid Pressure|
|P0868||Transmission Fluid Pressure Low|
|P0869||Transmission Fluid Pressure High|
|P0870||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch C Circuit|
|P0871||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0872||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch C Circuit Low|
|P0873||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch C Circuit High|
|P0874||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch C Circuit Intermittent|
|P0875||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch D Circuit|
|P0876||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch D Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0877||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch D Circuit Low|
|P0878||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch D Circuit High|
|P0879||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch D Circuit Intermittent|
|P0880||TCM Power Input Signal|
|P0881||TCM Power Input Signal Range/Performance|
|P0882||TCM Power Input Signal Low|
|P0883||TCM Power Input Signal High|
|P0884||TCM Power Input Signal Intermittent|
|P0885||TCM Power Relay Control Circuit/Open|
|P0886||TCM Power Relay Control Circuit Low|
|P0887||TCM Power Relay Control Circuit High|
|P0888||TCM Power Relay Sense Circuit|
|P0889||TCM Power Relay Sense Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0890||TCM Power Relay Sense Circuit Low|
|P0891||TCM Power Relay Sense Circuit High|
|P0892||TCM Power Relay Sense Circuit Intermittent|
|P0893||Multiple Gears Engaged|
|P0894||Transmission Component Slipping|
|P0895||Shift Time Too Short|
|P0896||Shift Time Too Long|
|P0897||Transmission Fluid Deteriorated|
|P0898||Transmission Control System MIL Request Circuit Low|
|P0899||Transmission Control System MIL Request Circuit High|
|P0900||Clutch Actuator Circuit/Open|
|P0901||Clutch Actuator Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0902||Clutch Actuator Circuit Low|
|P0903||Clutch Actuator Circuit High|
|P0904||Gate Select Position Circuit|
|P0905||Gate Select Position Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0906||Gate Select Position Circuit Low|
|P0907||Gate Select Position Circuit High|
|P0908||Gate Select Position Circuit Intermittent|
|P0909||Gate Select Control Error|
|P0910||Gate Select Actuator Circuit/Open|
|P0911||Gate Select Actuator Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0912||Gate Select Actuator Circuit Low|
|P0913||Gate Select Actuator Circuit High|
|P0914||Gear Shift Position Circuit|
|P0915||Gear Shift Position Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0916||Gear Shift Position Circuit Low|
|P0917||Gear Shift Position Circuit High|
|P0918||Gear Shift Position Circuit Intermittent|
|P0919||Gear Shift Position Control Error|
|P0920||Gear Shift Forward Actuator|
|P0921||Gear Shift Forward Actuator Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0922||Gear Shift Forward Actuator Circuit Low|
|P0923||Gear Shift Forward Actuator Circuit High|
|P0924||Gear Shift Reverse Actuator Circuit/Open|
|P0925||Gear Shift Reverse Actuator Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0926||Gear Shift Reverse Actuator Circuit Low|
|P0927||Gear Shift Reverse Actuator Circuit High|
|P0928||Gear Shift Lock Solenoid Control Circuit/Open|
|P0929||Gear Shift Lock Solenoid Control Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0930||Gear Shift Lock Solenoid Control Circuit Low|
|P0931||Gear Shift Lock Solenoid Control Circuit High|
|P0932||Hydraulic Pressure Sensor Circuit|
|P0933||Hydraulic Pressure Sensor Range/Performance|
|P0934||Hydraulic Pressure Sensor Circuit Low|
|P0935||Hydraulic Pressure Sensor Circuit High|
|P0936||Hydraulic Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent|
|P0937||Hydraulic Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit|
|P0938||Hydraulic Oil Temperature Sensor Range/Performance|
|P0939||Hydraulic Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Low|
|P0940||Hydraulic Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit High|
|P0941||Hydraulic Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent|
|P0942||Hydraulic Pressure Unit|
|P0943||Hydraulic Pressure Unit Cycling Period Too Short|
|P0944||Hydraulic Pressure Unit Loss of Pressure|
|P0945||Hydraulic Pump Relay Circuit/Open|
|P0946||Hydraulic Pump Relay Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0947||Hydraulic Pump Relay Circuit Low|
|P0948||Hydraulic Pump Relay Circuit High|
|P0949||Auto Shift Manual Adaptive Learning Not Complete|
|P0950||Auto Shift Manual Control Circuit|
|P0951||Auto Shift Manual Control Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0952||Auto Shift Manual Control Circuit Low|
|P0953||Auto Shift Manual Control Circuit High|
|P0954||Auto Shift Manual Control Circuit Intermittent|
|P0955||Auto Shift Manual Mode Circuit|
|P0956||Auto Shift Manual Mode Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0957||Auto Shift Manual Mode Circuit Low|
|P0958||Auto Shift Manual Mode Circuit High|
|P0959||Auto Shift Manual Mode Circuit Intermittent|
|P0960||Pressure Control Solenoid A Control Circuit/Open|
|P0961||Pressure Control Solenoid A Control Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0962||Pressure Control Solenoid A Control Circuit Low|
|P0963||Pressure Control Solenoid A Control Circuit High|
|P0964||Pressure Control Solenoid B Control Circuit/Open|
|P0965||Pressure Control Solenoid B Control Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0966||Pressure Control Solenoid B Control Circuit Low|
|P0967||Pressure Control Solenoid B Control Circuit High|
|P0968||Pressure Control Solenoid C Control Circuit/Open|
|P0969||Pressure Control Solenoid C Control Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0970||Pressure Control Solenoid C Control Circuit Low|
|P0971||Pressure Control Solenoid C Control Circuit High|
|P0972||Shift Solenoid A Control Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0973||Shift Solenoid A Control Circuit Low|
|P0974||Shift Solenoid A Control Circuit High|
|P0975||Shift Solenoid B Control Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0976||Shift Solenoid B Control Circuit Low|
|P0977||Shift Solenoid B Control Circuit High|
|P0978||Shift Solenoid C Control Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0979||Shift Solenoid C Control Circuit Low|
|P0980||Shift Solenoid C Control Circuit High|
|P0981||Shift Solenoid D Control Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0982||Shift Solenoid D Control Circuit Low|
|P0983||Shift Solenoid D Control Circuit High|
|P0984||Shift Solenoid E Control Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0985||Shift Solenoid E Control Circuit Low|
|P0986||Shift Solenoid E Control Circuit High|
|P0987||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch E Circuit|
|P0988||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch E Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0989||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch E Circuit Low|
|P0990||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch E Circuit High|
|P0991||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch E Circuit Intermittent|
|P0992||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch F Circuit|
|P0993||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch F Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0994||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch F Circuit Low|
|P0995||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch F Circuit High|
|P0996||Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch F Circuit Intermittent|
|P0997||Shift Solenoid F Control Circuit Range/Performance|
|P0998||Shift Solenoid F Control Circuit Low|
|P0999||Shift Solenoid F Control Circuit High|
|P1702||Nissan DTC: Transmission Control Module Unable to Access RAM|
|P1703||Nissan DTC: Transmission Control Module Unable to Access ROM|
|P1705||Nissan DTC: Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction|
|P1706||Nissan DTC: Park Neutral Position Switch Circuit Malfunction|
|P1710||Nissan DTC: Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit|
|P1716||Nissan DTC: Turbine Revolution Speed Sensor Circuit|
|P1721||Nissan DTC: Vehicle Speed Sensor MTR|
|P1730||Nissan DTC: A/T Interlock|
|P1731||Nissan DTC: A/T 1st Engine Braking / 1-2 Shift Malfunction|
|P1752||Nissan DTC: Input Clutch Solenoid Valve|
|P1754||Nissan DTC: Input Clutch Solenoid Valve Function|
|P1757||Nissan DTC: Front Brake Solenoid Valve|
|P1759||Nissan DTC: Front Brake Solenoid Valve Function|
|P1762||Nissan DTC: Direct Clutch Solenoid Valve|
|P1764||Nissan DTC: Direct Clutch Solenoid Valve Function|
|P1767||Nissan DTC: High and Low Reverse Clutch Solenoid Valve|
|P1769||Nissan DTC: High and Low Reverse Clutch Solenoid Valve Function|
|P1772||Nissan DTC: Low Coast Brake Solenoid Valve|
|P1774||Nissan DTC: Low Coast Brake Solenoid Valve Function|
|P1821||Internal Mode Switch Circuit B Low|
|P1822||Internal Mode Switch Circuit B High|
|P1822||Internal Mode Switch Circuit B High|
|P1823||Internal Mode Switch Circuit P Low|
|P1824||Internal Mode Switch Circuit P High|
|P1825||Internal Mode Switch Invalid Range|
|P1826||Internal Mode Switch Circuit C High|
|P1831||Pressure Control Solenoid Power Circuit Low|
|P1832||Pressure Control Solenoid Power Circuit High|
|P1833||GM TCC Solenoid Power Control Circuit Low Voltage|
|P1834||GM TCC Solenoid Power Control Circuit High Voltage|
|P1835||Kick-Down Switch Circuit|
|P1836||Kick-Down Switch Failed Open|
|P1837||Kick-Down Switch Failed Short|
|P1842||1-2 Shift Solenoid Low Voltage|
|P1843||1-2 Shift Solenoid High Voltage|
|P1844||Subaru Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor A Circuit Intermittent|
|P1845||2-3 Shift Solenoid Low Voltage|
|P1847||2-3 Shift Solenoid High Voltage|
|P1850||Brake Band Apply Solenoid Circuit|
|P1851||Brake Band Apply Solenoid Performance|
|P1852||Brake Band Apply Solenoid Low Voltage|
|P1853||Brake Band Apply Solenoid High Voltage|
|P1860||TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Electrical|
|P1864||Torque Converter Enable Solenoid Electrical Fault|
|P1866||TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Low Voltage|
|P1870||Transmission Component Slipping: GM Transmission|
|P1871||Undefined Gear Ratio|
|P1873||Torque Converter Clutch Stator Temperature Switch Circuit Low Voltage|
|P1874||Torque Converter Clutch Stator Temperature Switch Circuit High Voltage|
|P1886||Transaxle Shift Timing Solenoid Performance|
|P1887||Torque Converter Clutch Release Switch|
|P1890||CVT Speed Control System|
|P1891||Problem in Start Clutch Control System|
|P2700||Transmission Friction Element A Apply Time Range/Performance|
|P2701||Transmission Friction Element B Apply Time Range/Performance|
|P2702||Transmission Friction Element C Apply Time Range/Performance|
|P2703||Transmission Friction Element D Apply Time Range/Performance|
|P2704||Transmission Friction Element E Apply Time Range/Performance|
|P2705||Transmission Friction Element F Apply Time Range/Performance|
|P2706||Transmission Friction Element F Malfunction|
|P2707||Shift Solenoid F Performance / Stuck Off|
|P2708||Shift Solenoid F Stuck On|
|P2709||Shift Solenoid F Electrical|
|P2710||Shift Solenoid F Intermittent|
|P2711||Unexpected Mechanical Gear Disengagement|
|P2712||Hydraulic Power Unit Leakage Intermittent|
|P2713||Pressure Control Solenoid D|
|P2714||Pressure Control Solenoid D Performance or Stuck Off|
|P2715||Pressure Control Solenoid D Stuck On|
|P2716||Pressure Control Solenoid D Electrical|
|P2717||Pressure Control Solenoid D Intermittent|
|P2718||Pressure Control Solenoid D Circuit Open|
|P2719||Pressure Control Solenoid D Circuit Range/Performance|
|P2720||Pressure Control Solenoid D Control Circuit Low Voltage|
|P2721||Pressure Control Solenoid D Control Circuit High Voltage|
|P2722||Pressure Control Solenoid E Malfunction|
|P2723||Pressure Control Solenoid E Stuck Off|
|P2724||Pressure Control Solenoid E Stuck On|
|P2725||Pressure Control Solenoid E Electrical|
|P2726||Pressure Control Solenoid E Intermittent|
|P2727||Pressure Control Solenoid E Ctrl Circ / Open|
|P2728||Pressure Control Solenoid E Ctrl Circ Range/Perf|
|P2729||Pressure Control Solenoid E Ctrl Circ Low Voltage|
|P2730||Pressure Control Solenoid E Ctrl Circ High Voltage|
|P2731||Pressure Control Solenoid F|
|P2732||Pressure Control Solenoid F Performance or Stuck Off|
|P2733||Pressure Control Solenoid F Stuck On|
|P2734||Pressure Control Solenoid F Electrical|
|P2735||Pressure Control Solenoid F Intermittent|
|P2736||Pressure Control Solenoid F Ctrl Circ/Open|
|P2737||Pressure Control Solenoid F Ctrl Circuit Range/Performance|
|P2738||Pressure Control Solenoid F Ctrl Circuit Low Voltage|
|P2739||Pressure Control Solenoid E Ctrl Circuit High Voltage|
|P2740||Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor B Circuit|
|P2741||Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor B Circuit Range Performance|
|P2742||Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor B Circuit Low|
|P2743||Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor B Circuit High|
|P2744||Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor B Circuit Intermittent|
|P2745||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor B Circuit|
|P2746||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance|
|P2747||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor B Circuit No Signal|
|P2748||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor B Circuit Intermittent|
|P2749||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor C Circuit|
|P2750||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor C Circuit Range/Perf|
|P2751||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor C Circuit No Signal|
|P2752||Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor C Circuit Intermittent|
|P2753||Transmission Cooler Ctrl Circuit Open|
|P2754||Transmission Cooler Ctrl Circuit Low|
|P2755||Transmission Cooler Ctrl Circuit High|
|P2756||Torque Converter Clutch Press Ctrl Solenoid|
|P2757||Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Ctrl Circuit Performance or Stuck Off|
|P2758||Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Ctrl Circuit Stuck On|
|P2759||Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Ctrl Circuit Electrical|
|P2760||Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Ctrl Circuit Intermittent|
|P2761||Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Ctrl Circuit Open|
|P2762||Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Ctrl Circuit Range/Performance|
|P2763||Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Ctrl Circuit High|
|P2764||Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Ctrl Circuit Low|
|P2765||Input/Turbine Speed Sensor B Circuit|
|P2766||Input/Turbine Speed Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance|
|P2767||Input/Turbine Speed Sensor B Circuit No Signal|
|P2768||Input/Turbine Speed Sensor B Circuit Intermittent|
|P2769||Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Low|
|P2770||Torque Converter Clutch Circuit High|
|P2775||Upshift Switch Circuit Range/Performance|
|P2776||Upshift Switch Circuit Low|
|P2777||Upshift Switch Circuit High|
|P2778||Upshift Switch Circuit Intermittent|
|P2779||Downshift Switch Circuit Range/Performance|
|P2780||Downshift Switch Circuit Low|
|P2781||Downshift Switch Circuit High|
|P2782||Downshift Switch Circuit Intermittent|
|P2783||Torque Converter Temp Too High|
|P2784||Input/Turbine Speed Sensor A/B Correlation|
|P2786||Gear Shift Actuator Temp Too High|
|P2787||Clutch Temp Too High|
|P2788||Auto Shift Manual Adaptive Learning at Limit|
|P2789||Clutch Adaptive Learning at Limit|
|P2790||Gate Select Direction Circuit|
|P2791||Gate Select Direction Circuit Low|
|P2792||Gate Select Direction Circuit High|
|P2793||Gear Shift Direction Circuit|
|P2794||Gear Shift Direction Circuit Low|
|P2795||Gear Shift Direction Circuit High|
Over to You
Which of these problems are you experiencing?
Hello. I have a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0L V6. When driving shifts fine, when I stop and need to change from D to R, or vice versa it jerks, sometimes it jerks very hard. Also it became very slow to take off form stationary position but then it drives fine. Please help figuring out this issue.
check the oil/ATF temperature sensor…and replace it..
I have a 2012 Chevy Captiva, auto transmission. it recently started making the “clinking” noise, about 3 weeks ago. A few days back when I tried accelerating on the highway the engine made the noise but the car did not budge any faster than the regular pace. Last night it started jerking and continued to jerk as I accelerated. When I tried to reverse it refused, now it’s in service waiting on the new spare parts for the gearbox.
Best thing to do in order to avoid what had happened to me is to take it for service, just get it checked out because it can be really expensive eventually…
I have a 2000 Mazda Protégé ES 1.8L automatic. I have had the car for about 6 months, and it has not slipped gears or anything.. Today I went to drive it, and it wouldn’t go into drive, like it didn’t catch on. Well I put it in Park, and revved it up, and put it in drive.. It felt like the handle and everything was hitting something smoothly, like a piece of cloth, and just wasn’t letting it go all the way in drive. Well I drove it and it drove fine, nothing seemed out of place. I went to put it in park. And it would not go all the way in park. It would be half way in park, and half way in reverse, but would want to slide into reverse when I gave it gas. Now the red thing that tells me it’s in park is red. So it’s in park, (Where it should be at least) but not all the way in park. I have never had this problem before.. I have to put it in Neutral to start it. Yesterday it started making a loud noise in reverse. But I still have reverse. Everything is fine. All gears work as fast and everything. Just don’t know what’s wrong with it.
Could be shifter cable or component getting stretched or worn out causing this issue
Hi my automatic transmission drives horrible when “cold” after its been sitting for about 4 hours it will climb in rpms getting all the way to 6. At that point I have to drop it into drive 3 just to get the rpms to drop down to at least 4 and stop acting as if its in neutral. It will finally change about 10 miles up the road and drive like its a branf new car at that point. I’ve changed the fluid and filter about 5 months ago and I regularly check it and it does not smell Burnt. Every time I try to explain it to a mechanic they act as if I don’t know what I’m talking about and say “I’ve never heard of a car doing that”. But as a daily driver of this car I should know that there is a problem here. Can someone please help me and tell me if its something as simple as the computer failing or is it a serious problem that needs a rebuild?
I’m having the exact same issue with my 89 Silverado. Changed the fluid /filter, added some Transx and adjusted the tv cable…nothing is working. If you figure it out, let me know.
I’m having the same thing happened to me help
I have a 2000 mustang gt 4.6… it’s a manual transmission… i hear a chirping or beeping whatever u want to call it coming from my clutch… If I just touch the clutch with my foot the sound stops.. but once I let go it happens again… is this something I should be concerned about? The sound isn’t very loud at all but I still don’t like that it’s there.
Sounds like your throw out bearing is making a racket. It should just be an annoying noise but no major problem. If you ever get a clutch job done make sure you replace throw out bearing and all.
have a 2006 ford e350 van diesel/ while driving when on a hill shifts down and acts like loses power and is slipping/ also some times not on hills when it goes to shift if dies like out of fuel /any ideas?
in my experience add a body ground. take a piece if electric wire to the negative post of your car battery then connect it somewhere to the body of your car.
My daughters car just broke down on side of road a long way from home and she said her car won’t go into drive or reverse but her fluid level is fine and she has never noticed any problems before now, could it possibly be her computer she has a 2002 Kia Spectra
Hi Sharon, I’m sorry to hear about your car trouble. If it isn’t any of the problems listed in this article and she hasn’t had any trouble until now, then the computer could be at fault.
Do you mean nothing happens when you shift into reverse/drive or that you cant move the shifter at all?
If you can move the shifter but nothing happens when you do, the transmission shift linkage could be broken/disconnected.
Sharon I had the same thing happen to my 1996 Pontiac Sun fire one day I stopped at a stop sign and the transmission slipped once then worked when I got it home I parked it and it stoped working no reverse wouldn’t let me outta park ended up replacing the transmission
I have a 2002 Chevy Impala, automatic trans. I smell a burning smell when I drive it that I’m not sure what it’s from. Also I notice it gives off a lot of heat even after being driven just a short time. After it’s been driven for a long time when it shifts, especially into 2nd gear it jerks or shifts hard. It drives smoothly, but you can tell something isn’t right. I have also noticed a substantial loss in power in that when I accelerate (especially uphill) it just won’t speed up very well, even when the pedal is against the floor.
Same here , 98 ZR2 S10 4WD
I have a 2001 Saturn SL2, driving home Sunday had on cruise control going down I65, all of a sudden RPMS went all the way up to the red, and slowed down from 70 mph to 30 mph. I got off at the next exit went to gas station and bought trans fluid. Added some but it didn’t seem that low? I got the car back to my parents and we left it over night at the garage. Monday went to the garage to tell them what was happening. Later in the afternoon they called and said “we took the top off the trans, everything is in tact and looks fine. Cannot figure out what is wrong?” Oh yea I found out that the gas station that the car will not go into reverse? Any ideas anyone?
Try putting transmission Lucas in it if you have any more problems as for reverse its a common issue with saturns
I ended up having another trans put in. They took it from another car that was in a wreck. Now 10 months later I get in car to go to work this morning and start the car, it will go in park, but when I put in R or D it slips to D3 and won’t move. Rolled out of parking space, pushed it back up and didn’t realize it was still in R when pushed it. Anyone know why this is happening?
2006 kia sorento v6 four wheel drive, the vehical seemed too stay in first gear and shifted and went bye itself into four wheel drive what would cause that
98 explorer 4.0 awd had another motor put in and now no reverse and wont move in drive unless already moving 1 and 2 work good drive and over drive revs high and wont hardly move. the guy told me, nothing i did would have messed with the tranny. but i had no problems till he messed with it. what do i do
I have a Nissan car that has a gear problem, each time I change the gear the car will jack on speed and it will not enter reverse again. Please what should I do?. I have scanned and fixed the bad sensor but still giving the same problem when I replace the gear.
I have an 02 Accord Lx coupe. It’s slow to shift gears and accelerate in Reverse, D4,D3,2 and 1. I just had a transmission flush & change. Even put in lubegard and Lucas transmission fix but it only works for about 2 days and goes right back to jerking into acceleration. Even had new shifting solenoids put in but still jerking. Any suggestions would be fine!
because you had a flush done on it all the sediment from normal ware has been kicked up and could be clogging the ports in your trans. You will have to take it in and have it cleaned. The shops wont tell you this but a flush is the one of worst thing you can do to you trans.
Actually Keith, if the shop is reputable and does business with honesty, they (the shop) will tell you! If I have a customer who wants an “easy fix” such as additives (Lucas stop slip; which FYI for the other readers, that product is BS in a bottle) I have no problems telling them the truth which is that there is no magical way to quick fix it if you have a internal mechanical problem. Any shade tree will be more than happy to fix it, but that’s more than likely with a junkyard unit.
Also the only way to clean these “ports” as he calls them, is with the transmission dismantled, and into the high pressure cleaner as well as with the valve body disassembled.
Not trying to get snappy, but as a female Owner and Operator of an auto repair shop, it is a wonder how many people believe in these things. Always get another opinion and if possible, have the mechanic show you what the true problem is.
I have a 1996 GMC Jimmy, 2WD, automatic transmission. I’m the original owner and my Jimmy has approx. 350,000 miles. Original engine and transmission. My ‘check engine light’ has been on since I had about 40,000 miles on it. We turn it off for the semi-annual smog checks, then it comes back on about 30 miles father I drive it. Everything was checked and changed when it was originally under warranty. The problem was never found, so I can not rely on it for a true ‘warning’.
So, here’s my issue. I was driving yesterday and my engine began shaking violently. The check engine light began to flash, it as never done that before. I took my car to my mechanic (who I’ve trusted for years) and he sad that it threw several codes stating that my transmission was slipping. Well, of course driving to his shop it drove fine so he wasn’t able to see the engine shake. By the way, it shook when I was at stop signs and with the trans in park – not just driving in gear. He informed me that trans work could cause me to need major engine work in the near future. I just don’t get it. How can the trans cause the nine to violently shake? Can the codes be incorrect sense the check engine light has never worked correctly and int reliable? Is my mechanic wrong about needing major engine work if the trans is, as he says, replaced?
I’m frustrated as the engine has been amazing and reliable for 350,000. Oh, one note – not too long ago he replaced the fuel pump and has worked on my fuel injectors before. It felt as if my car wasn’t getting enough gas. It didn’t feel, to me, as if it ad anything to do with the transmission. I recently had the trans fluid flashed and filled. If anyone has any suggestions, or comments, they would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading this and your opinions ~
Should not flush a tranny on an older car. The transmission fluid might have been holding parts together in side so basically when you take that fluid away, metal pieces come with it.
I am sorry to say but that is not true.. A flush is perfectly fine, safe and twice as helpful.. 🙂
Agreed. I just did a flush and fluid change on my ford and it feels like a brand new tranny. 157k 2003 4.6/AOD-E
The engine light flashing is a good indication of an engine miss fire in most all my experiences. And like mentioned before, never flush an old vehicles transmission. I have changed fluid by letting the trans draw in fresh on its own and catching the old till it comes clean, but never flush……
For more information on whether or not to flush, see: https://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/what-is-a-transmission-flush/
1995 Saturn jerks when put on reverse what do you guys think could possible be wrong .
Common saturn issue
get duralube trans treatment and add to trans fluid, it will get rid of any trans clunking you have
Can anyone please explain why my car cant go in reverse but can drive forward
FYI: Makes noise when I put gear in reverse
Nissan pathfinder 2003
sounds like you have a clutch pack failing and will need to have it serviced.
We have a 2002 chrysler t/c with almost 200,000 miles on it and when i would first start it up, it would start out in first gear then jerk into second and it would stay in 2nd gear even after stopping at a stop sign, and shifting into drive without turning engine off and starting back up after having been driven, the tranny would jerk into 2nd. the speedometer also stopped working. we replaced the speed sensors then it worked fine for about a week until it started acting up again. when it was raining, it would stop acting up, so we took a spray bottle and sprayed the wires where the sensors are plugged in. we had to solder one of the wires where it plugs in and it’s fine now. I guess when chryslers jerk into 2nd gear, the computer would make the tranny stay in 2nd as a safety feature to prevent further damage. But I think it does more damage than good cause i have to replace my tranny mounts from it jerking into 2nd so abruptly and it slips a little in 1st now, but it has almost 200,000 miles and still has no problem pulling my boat. it still has some life left in it.
I got a 2000 silverado 4×4. It drives fine and reverses fine when it’s cool. When it starts warming up, it seems to just not go anywhere even when I put it in reverse. Can you explain to me what is the issue
Check cooling pump for it.
Ever find out what the problem was? I’m having the same issue and I’m clueless about it.
It seems that the 40L60 and 40L80M transmissions were prone to heating problems. The reality is that they sometimes respond to programmed error-handling software that tell the Silverado to shut down when the transmission fluid is warm.
You’d think that the problem would be lie in the cooler lines, wouldn’t you? It seems to make lots of sense, but, looks can really be deceiving here. It is more than likely the pressure control solenoid — or another switch in the same circuit — that is failing. The solenoid is shorting to ground and causing the transmission to react by stopping.
In a way, the transmission is trying very hard to go into limp home mode, but isn’t quite getting there.
So, what can you do to fix this? First, have your transmission specialist run a diagnostic and hook up a diagnostic reader to the OBD-II connector. It should likely pick up a code for a pressure control sensor or module failure. Once you have found the codes, it is fairly straightforward to swap out the old electronics and put in new electronics.
It is possible that the torque converter is going. Just the slamming and banging into gear could easily damage it and other parts.
However, the PCS (pressure control solenoid) is likely the problem, there are other issues that might be having an impact on the transmission. Most likely, you will find that a check valve in the valve body is plugged up, inhibiting the flow of transmission fluid. Or, it could be a plugged transmission filter causing an overpressure indication or it may be a check valve, a plugged filter and, possibly, a constriction in a cooling line for the transmission.
It may certainly seem like there are a whole bunch of potential problems that have to be fixed. And, it is true there could be. The only thing that is being suggested here, aside from finding the solenoid that is likely causing this whole mess, is that all potentials should be explored so that you won’t find that you have invested roughly $1,000 to fix the solenoid/sensor/module problem and that investment has yielded no real repair because it seems that the transmission is still having problems.
All that said, some owners have found that the addition of a $1,000 transmission cooler is just the ticket to make sure this problem doesn’t come back.
I have a leak from my transmission the leak is light pink on the ground and does not have any smell. I have a 1997 Lexus es 300 with approximately 105000 miles. What do you think the problem could be
To Reggie7217, transmission leak is the vaguest way of saying it. There are many different places that a transmission can leak from, starting with the cooler lines which are the easiest fix. The first step to identifying a leak is to start by watching the car when it’s on, first be sure the fluid level is where it should be though to avoid any damage from fluid already lost. Try to identify the source of the leak, start from looking exactly where it’s falling on the ground, this can be easier said than done on a slow leak. Then go up and see where the real origination is, leaks can be difficult to find especially for someone who known little about cars.
Things to check are if it’s coming from the bottom of the transmission, which could either be loose bolts or a transmission pan gasket, most likely is that or your cooler lines, trust me I know how it is, don’t want to go to some crap place that screws you but don’t know a whole lot. Good luck.
No noise no movement any gear automatic transmission 08 f250 column shifts p r n d 123 what likely the problem happened after parked after race. And my fluid is full still bright red. No codes on truck.
I have a 06 F 250 tran just quit fluid level ok. I have 290,000 miles on it. It has been pulling good and shifting great. At about 50-60 it tries to downshift. I stop put it in neutral then in drive, it tried to pull at about 5 or 6 then I got po741 p0751 po766 p1744 p2700 p2703.
Check the shift linkage that’s what goes from handle to trans case
Neutral and park gears no problem, but drive, 1st, 2nd and reverse engages when in gear off and on as each one is tested. This truck is a Dodge B250 318 5.2l 2 barrel carb. 90,000 miles. I bought this unit 3 yrs. ago and have driven 1000 miles or so with no problems. It’s a high top van being converted to a camper. The transmission fluid and filter etc. were done and run fine until now. Will reset the computer and change the fluid’s again. What do you guys think? Thanks.
Because you are using it as a camper I’m guessing that you leave it in park and run it when you are sleeping to have the heat on. This is a problem because in park a dodge dose not run the the transmission pump so the trans oil does not heat up and can cause problems. if you get it fixed i recommend getting some wheel stops and having it in neutral when you have it setting and running.
So what you are saying is I should leave my car running in neutral anytime is not being driven even if I’m sleeping in my bed at home That way my fluid will never be cold? Your transmission doesn’t care of you are running in park or not running at all. That’s why no pump while in park. You can’t damage transmission or fluid by running car in park.