Hostgator

There are a couple things that make your van behave as it is behaving. In no particular order, it may be the torque converter is slipping a bit (doubtful, but possible). It could be the turbine slipping a bit (again doubtful, but possible). It may be the clutches that are slipping a bit (more likely, but again possible). Combined with the clutches, it could be the bands that are slipping (again more likely). It is possible that it could be the planetary gears themselves that are slipping a bit because there may be worn spots or a cog may be out of possible because it is slightly bent or nicked. It could also be that a solenoid pack is failing, but hasn’t quite gone yet.

You can see the many different possibilities that could be troubling your Venture. They are nice vans — I sold them for a bit so I am familiar with them — but like every other vehicle they do require maintenance.

You told me in your question that you have had all of the major service recommendations completed to which I say great. You are way ahed of lots of vehicle owners on that score, but, you told me something else that tripped an alarm in my mind — you haven’t changed the transmission fluid in some time.

Yes, I know that I could walk out to my sedan right now, pull the dipstick, rub the transmission fluid across my finger to see if it felt grittle and sniff it to see if it smelled burned. I don’t think that it would be, but, who knows? I could see if the levels looked right, as well. I also know they are probably right, as well.

With all of that said, though, you told me everything looks okay, but I have to tell you that it isn’t, if you haven’t replaced the transmission fluid in a while. Yes, the fluid has to be swapped out on the intervals outlined in your owner’s manual. If not, it starts to break down over time and begins to cause problems.

That’s exactly what I think is going on now. You see, premium transmission fluilds are vegetable-based, not solely petro-based. Because they are organic, the heat that they continually carry off begins to break them down over time. As they break down, their heat-carrying capacity falls, as well, as does their ability to protect the transmission.

The funny thing about the start of the breakdown is that if you pull the dipstick and look at the color of the fluid and sniff it, you won’t suspect anything is wrong because, at this point, it looks quite normal. But, trust me, it isn’t in good shape, if you have let it go beyond its safe point between 30,000 and 40,000 miles.

Here’s my suggestion: get the van to a good independent shop; have the transmission fluid drained out, not forgetting the quart or so in the pan (yes the lid has to be opened), closing things up and putting in a clean refill. I think this should fix the Venture right up. (While it’s open, if you have access to the transmission filter, I’d swap that as well.)

I don’t think it’s the solenoid for the following reason: when an electronic part like a solenoid breaks it usually happens all at once. If that were the case, then you wouldn’t be able to make the shift at all either getting into the gear or getting out of it.

I know this sounds like a cop-out, but I have to ask you how long has it been since your last transmission fluid check? If the fluid is down a quart of so then parts of your transmission, such as the torque converter or planetary gear chain may be high and dry, relying on brief spurts of high-pressure coverage from the transmission (transmissions do operate under pressure and at times can build extra pressure within the case as they try to make up for fluid that is not there). It’s not a good idea to let this last very long.

I would get the car into a good independent transmission shop and have the current fill of transmission fluid drained and refilled. While the transmission fluid is drained, I would also have the transmission filter swapped out and replaced to keep things working smoothly. Be sure to have the technician drop the transmission fluid pan cover to empty the last half-a-quart or so that always remains within the case. Then, after putting the cover back on with the proper gasketing, of course, the tech should replace the fluid with the proper fluid for your transmission. You will find that listed in the owner’s manual. Never let the transmission be overfilled because there will be too much pressure within the tranny and nasty things can happen.

Let me know what happens, I’d like to hear the results.

My thinking on this is that if you are replacing everything in an electronic chain, then you have to replace all of the components at the same time. It doesn’t do much good if you replace four or five items and leave the sixth only to have the sixth fail when you put everything back together.

I would also suggest, if you can, swapping out the TCM (tranmission control module) and any related sensors such as the MAF (Manifold Air Flow) and the MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) plus the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and the shaft speed and wheel speed sensors. The reason is that your Cavalier has 160,000 miles on it and it is more than 16 years old, not exactly new. Each of the sensors has lots of miles on them and they will likely be points of fialure sooner rather than later, especially if you swap out other sensors and the TCM.

Once you have everything installed and the tranny is buttoned up let me know how things are going.

I think you have pretty much outlined what you have to do. I don’t think the hard shifts have damaged anything permanently. Your transmission is made to put up with a certain amount of daily wear and tear and hard use and hard-shifting falls within that description so I don’t think you need invest in a rebuilt.

I do think, though, that from the sound of the symptoms that swapping out the solenoid packs is warranted and if you can get easy access to them, I’d say go for it. Since you have already fixed the major problem (the sensor), fixing the secondary ones is now in order.

Once you’ve done this, I believe you’ll find the transmission works quite well. And, you have saved yourself more than $2,500 because you didn’t have to put in a rebuilt.

The 06 Cobalt, like most GM cars, uses two shift solenoids on the outside and inside the valve body. The way they line up electrically causes your car to shift.

Since you have lost fifth gear — the Cobalt of that era used a five-speed automatic — it is most likely solenoid two that has failed. At that it is likely only one side of the solenoid that has failed as you have gears 1-4.

Fifth gear is actually an overdrive type of gear that lengthens the gearing so your engine turns more slowly for the speed. It is one of the ways your Cobalt gets the reasonable mileage that made it popular.

I would suggest a couple of things to make sure your 12-year-old car remains in good shape — at least for transmission health. The first is taking it to a dealer (Chevy) and having one of the techs there run a full OBD-II diagnostic. This should reveal if there are any other problem areas that are going (Today’s OBD-II diagnostic is pretty comprehensive and while the scanner generally points at overall areas where problems may occur, the software has been refined to the point that you should find out where other problems may lie. It will also show you which solenoid pack has failed.).

Second, Id have the transmission drained and refilled to ensure it operates properly. Some shops use a high-pressure style transmission drain that I don’t advocate. The reason is that the high pressure jet may dislodge crusted deposits that could remain within the transmission, causing further damage later on. The proper way to drain the transmission is the remove the drain screw/plug and draining it into an environmentally friendly container (one made for this purpose). This will leave about a quart or so within the transmission pan. To remove this last quart there are 14 or so nuts that have to be backed out so the cover comes off. Be sure you have a bucket underneath to catch the fluid. Also, take a look at the drain plug as it is somewhat magnetic, to see if there are any metal shavings or shards that could indicate internal damage. with everything drained, replace the cover, being sure that you are using the right gasketing material (some use a fiber-style gasket, while others use a variant on RTV (room-temperature vulcanizing agent)), and replacing the nuts. Don’t overtorque them because you risk warping the cover. Hand-tight and a quarter-turn or so is all you need. While the transmission is open, replace the filter that you will also find in the sump. Refill with the recommended transmission fluid (it is in the owner’s manual), using the right number of quarts. You refill through the filler neck.

Let me know what happens.

From what it sounds like, I have to say this, though you have done a ton of work, it sounds like you have missed a step.

Here’s what I would suggest: start from the beginning (I know this will take some work) and then work through each section of the transmission to ensure that it is hooked in correctly. All it takes is something relatively small, like a clip inserted backwards and the transmission acts just like you have said it is acting.

I honestly suspect that as you go through things that you will find that you have turned a spring or springclips around so that while they look like they are installed correctly, they are really backwards so that the clutch plate and pressure plate, for example, are not exerting pressure and completing the mechanical linkage you need to make things work.

Indeed, I think you will find that you may have even inserted the clutch plate or pressure plate incorrectly so that instead of pushing forward when you release the clutch, they are come apart. I realize that mechanics have told you everything looks okay, but, since your Mondeo isn’t moving, then something’s obviously wrong.

In your checking, I would pay special attention to the clutch springs and the pressure plate springs to ensure they are working correctly. Likewise, I would check the throwout bearing closely. Though it can honestly be inserted in one direction, you may find that you have inserted it incorrectly so that the device that is key to proper clutch operation — the throwout bearing — is inserted so that it is working incorrectly. Or, if the device is inserted correctly, it is possible that the springs that are suppose to help it engage correctly and disengage correctly have either been swapped or they are turned around.

I hope this helps. Let me know what happens.

Let me ease your mind with one statement, your transmission has a problem or problems but doesn’t require the $2,000 investment in time and money you will need to replace your Hyundai’s manual transmission.

Let’s get to your specific issue, though. From the sound of it the problem area is the clutch/throw-out bearing/pressure plate and related parts. The reason I say it is because I am just repeating the information you gave me. However, to take this a bit further, when you press the clutch in, the throw-out bearing is activated and it pulls the clutch plate clear of the flywheel on the engine.

In all of this, the throw-out bearing is an actor with a limited role. It simple is activated by the clutch pedal and it causes the clutch plate to, as noted, separate from the engine. When you release the clutch pedal, the throw-out bearing relaxes and there is a hard connection between the engine and transmission.

I suspect the throw-out bearing is the culprit here. There are times when the bearing becomes lazy and sloppy causing shifting to become sloppy, though you don’t see this directly. Instead you receive noises like rocks being crushed or whining.

I’d have the throw-out bearing replaced asap to end the immediate problem. I would also have the clutch plate facing changed as it might also be slipping, causing the transmission to whine or grind.

Changing the throw-out bearing is roughly a $420 repair while the clutch plate facing costs about the same. If it still grinds after these repairs, have your tech look at the specific gears as there might be a problem there or it could be a synchronizer is failing.

Let me know what happen, will you?

Here’s one, why on earth would you listen to a tech who tells you he’d get you a transmission the only trouble is that it is generating five error codes instead of just one. And, the one that is being raised by the diagnostic scanner — 46 — points to one of the solenoids which is a fairly quick and inexpensive (for the transmission). The shift solenoids are located either on the valve body or inside of it. Yes, getting to those inside does require a teardown of the transmission before you can insert a new solenoid. However, I think that when you look at the $700 or so bill you would receive to replace the solenoid versus the $3,400 bill you would receive to replace your current transmission with a rebuilt that it makes far more sense to invest in fixing the first transmission.

That’s my thinking anyway.

By the way, I would honestly be wary of a supposed tranny expert who finds you a transmission with more problems than your original had and then having the same expert telling you to find a rebuilt to fix the problem.

Please note that BMW service rates are among the highest in the business so be sure you can find out if your local dealership can do the work at an agreeable and affordable price.

Thanks for all the input. I can tell you this much from the top that your Accord needs three new sensors, the BARO (barometric) the CKP (Crankshaft Position Sensor) and the HO2 sensor (Heated Oxygen sensor). As I looked at the information I have on Honda error codes, it also struck me that with each sensor description there was the cryptic ECM or Engine Control Module. The ECM is the big kahuna of engine modules, it is the microcomputer that provides the software to each sensor or module in the engine and it also takes the information, puts it all together and then makes decisions about emissions setting, accelerator settings (we haven’t honestly had accelerator control for nearly 30 years, it has all been done by computer). The other three sensors report to the ECM. All of them deal with emissions and fuel economy.

From what you have told me it could be that one or more of the sensors has gone intermittent and could be shorting out the ECM, causing your transmission problems. I think the primary candidate in this one is the CKP as it sits in that chain of engine software, the one dealing directly with the engine and transmission — the powertrain. If this sensor is gone, then it is quite possible your Accord is acting the way it is acting. I’d suggest swapping out the three sensors I mentioned and the engine control module. I believe that if you do most of the problems you have discussed with me will go away.

One other area to check — you have already started with the first solenoid — is the solenoid packs. There are two in your Accord, one should be on the outside of the valve body and the other should be on the inside. I don’t know which one could be going or gone, but I have to suspect it could be either. I’d suggest replacing both and that should pretty much fix your Accord’s problems.

All told — between the sensors, engine control module and solenoids — you are looking at an investment of about $1,500 for parts and labor. If you think that it’s worth it in a vehicle that is, after all, 23 years old, then I would say go for it. If not, then why not turn the old Accord in on a slightly newer model. One of my closest friends just put the third transmission in his 2002 Accord EX 2.2 that has close to 350,000 miles on the odometer. He’s happy with the decision he made and his Accord seems quite happy, too.

I’d love to be able to tell you to storm into the office, receipts in hand, and demand that the seals be replaced under an implied warranty, however, three years is pushing it. Granted, you would think that axle seals should last longer than three years, however, if you look at the basic consumer laws where you are, you will likely find that major repairs are warrantied for a year. After that time, you are pretty much on your own.

You might try this tactic to see if you can get some traction on your claim. Suggest to the technician or the manager that since the seals failed under four years that there might be something wrong somewhere and that it might be a good idea sit down to see if there might be some accommodation available, say, half-cost, split between you and the shop. Or, you might suggest some other plan where you pay a bit, but the shop pays more.

Honestly, I don’t know if they will bite because three years is still three years and seals do fail in 36 months. The shop is well within its rights say no and charge you full price.

When you receive the 26/62 combination, it indicates there is a problem with the shift solenoids for starters.

In the Prado, there are three shift solenoids that must be replaced. You will have to drain the transmission so that you can locate them. One of the shift solenoids is located on the tranmission’s valve body while the other two should be located on the inside. Because of the interior location, you needed to drain the tranny.

I’d suggest, at this point, obtaining the service manual for your Prado’s automatic transmission because you will be able to identify the spot each solenoid resides in.

The 26/62 error code also could mean there’s a problem with the valve body for which you will need to inspect the valve body closely. You are in luck, though, because you already have it open to replace the solenoids.

The same error combination could indicate there may be a problem with the torque converter. Since the converter is central to the transmission’s proper operation, I think you should be thinking of installing a rebuilt transmission. I know you don’t want to hear this, but, you’ll save yourself a lot of trouble, many piles of headaches and, in the long run, your transmission will work correctly pretty much from the get=go. The work, brace yourself, will cost about $4,000.

This may sound like a rather basic suggestion — it is, I know — but try looking at the solenoid packs again. Are you sure that you have the proper replacement solenoid? If you are certain the replacements are proper, have you installed them in the correct positions? It is very easy to slip a solenoid pack into what you think is the right spot only to find out later that the solenoid is the wrong device.

I’d suggest that you pull out the solenoid packs and then make sure that the 1-2 pack goes into the right carrier and the 3-4 pack goes into the right carrier.

I’d also suggest making sure that the electrical connectors are properly inserted. It is easy to turn things around so that the plug is actually wired in backwardly. In this case, even though the resistance may look as if it is correct, it is entirely possible that because the connector could be backwards. There are some connectors in vehicles that can easily be placed in so things are backward.

Let me now what happens if and when you check things and change things around.

From the sound of your problem, I think the torque converter has given up the good fight. Some might say the clutches/bands, while others might say the gearing, but I think that your problem is in the torque converter.

The torque converter is the device that sets up a current throughout the tranny, pushing the fluid throughout. The torque converter spins up a set of vanes that spin until the turbine blades on the other side are spinning at the same rate. Once this happens, then, items like the clutches/bands are allowed to spin up so that the engine speed matches the transmission speed so that upshifts can happen.

Of course, the gearing also takes its power from the moving transmission fluid by taking power from the clutches/bands so that you get proper shifting.

At this point in the history of transmissions, it is still some years until the complete computerization of the transmission occurs. With that said, though, there are still some telltales of things to come such as the shift solenoid packs. In 1983, things were still pretty rudimentary but the industry was well into using solenoid packs to assure that the shifts occurred with pinpoint accuracy every time, instead of relying on the somewhat hit-or-miss fashion of the clutches/band packs and gearing.

With all of this said, the biggest hint you gave me of the problem was the fact that the transmission fluid went before you even exited your driveway. With no tranny fluid, you have to motive power in the transmission. Though I don’t doubt you checked the level of the fluid, I would suggest you give it another try to see if there is anything still in the transmission. If not, then you have a serious problem. It could be overpressure caused by deposits of gunk throughout the device that builds up pressure that was only relieved by it blasting out the filler neck and, most likely, the failure of one or more hoses, as well.

It’s highly interesting that all of this should happen at the same time, but it can. So, once you have checked the fluid level, if there is any, look around to see if any hoses have come loose on the transmission or if there is fluid on the engine block near the filler neck. If there is, your transmission has serious issues that can only be repaired with the installation of a rebuilt tranny which should cure your problem. Of course, it will be expensive at $4,000 but if you don’t do it, then you have a very large paperweight gracing your driveway.