Hostgator

We’ve just revisited this question quickly and here’s a thought. It could be that the syncros on the forward gears are wearing a bit and getting noisy. This would tend to make sense in a vehicle that is now about 20 years old. And, although your friend did change the transmission a few years ago, it was still in the past and things have a way of wearing in manners you do not expect. If you can live with the sound — it is evident you can because the transmission is working correctly — then just wait until you have your vehicle in for the next regularly scheduled service appointment. At that time, the technician should give your transmission a good look over.

Well, this one, while it seems easy, is a bit more complicated than you think. Since your DeVille is in Park but the car’s computer believes it is Reverse, then it is unlikely your vehicle will start, just as you describe. If your car were jammed in Park and your car’s computer believed it, then, at least the neutral-start switch would work when you pressed the brake and your car would turn over.

The problem with your car is two-fold, it seems. The first problem is that the software in your car’s ECU or Electronic Control Unit (shorthand for compute) is really fouled up so your DeVille is having identity problems so that when you put it into Park, it thinks it is in Reverse and so on. The issue here is, more than likely, a sensor, relay or solenoid that is working incorrectly and sending the wrong information to the ECU. For example, if the TPS (throttle position sensor) is incorrectly reporting the positional geography of the throttle then your DeVille just won’t perform correctly. Since it isn’t performing at all and since the computer is reporting the wrong gearing, it looks like the ECU or one of the 15 to 20 sensors that are linked to the ECU may be failing. Look at the error codes that have likely been returned with a diagnostic scanner for better definition of the problem.

The second problem could be in the shift linkage as it seems that your transmission linkage could be putting the vehicle into Reverse instead of into Park. The linkage cables may have stretched or may be binding a bit in their runners so that could be a problem that has to be checked.

First let’s get a couple of questions cleared up, though, the answers are pretty apparent. First, did your friends sit on the clutch pedal while opening up the engine, trying to make the rear wheels smoke? And, was there a whole bunch of smoke coming out of the front end when he finished?

With those questions asked, let’s see if we can’t find the answer. The answer is likely yes to the first one and yes to the second. It sounds like your friend has fried the clutch plate (also called a clutch disk) by holding the clutch at what is called the “friction point,” causing all sorts of smoke to build up. Honestly, it really looks super to have the wheels smoking as the engine on the WRX winds up, but, what you are really doing is causing one humungeous slippage to occur, frying the surface of the clutch plate. It is also possible that in addition to the clutch plate the throw-out bearing has been roached pretty well, too as the constant pressure on the clutch may have damaged it the bearing. It is also possible that when the clutch plate was fried, the pressure plate — the device that actually provides the pressure on the back of the clutch plate — was also damaged. One more thing that may have happened is that face of the engine flywheel — the device that takes the engine’s power and transfers it to the transmission — may also have been damaged.

If, as is probably the case, the clutch plate, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and the flywheel were damaged while your friend was busily creating havoc with your transmission and your WRX’s tires, you are looking at some major repairs as the transmission will have to be dropped so that the engine flywheel can be dropped and replaced. Further, the clutch plate, pressure plate and throw-out bearing will have to be replaced as well, making this a rather expensive mistake. You are looking at the better part of $2,000 in repairs when all the bills are counted.

There are two possible troublespots, though, it is most likely to be this one: low transmission fluid. It sounds as if your Xterra has a case of low-fluiditis (pardon the pun) and little more, though, if you don’t fix this problem you will likely have something far worse in the near future.

Assuming this is the case, which it most likely is, the problem is that your transmission’s fluid level is down only slightly, say half-a-quart or so. You can easily remedy this problem by adding new transmission fluid (check your owner’s manual for the correct part number; each automaker uses a special transmission fluid for its own automatics) in the proper amount and no more. Too much transmission fluid raises pressure and all kinds of havoc with the tranny.

To get a precise fluid level, just follow these steps:

1. Park on a flat area
2. Set the parking brake
3. Start or restart the Xterra and let it run for 20 minutes to achieve operating temperature (alternatively you can drive for 15 minutes)
4. Holding the brake for added safety put your Xterra in gear and run it through each gear for a moment to assure proper fluid infiltration in the transmission
5. Find and remove the transmission fluid dipstick
6. Clean it and reinsert it into the automatic transmission fluid filler neck (where you removed it)
7. Remove the dipstick again, taking are to do it with as straight a motion as possible (to prevent smudging the sample)
8. Read the fluid level, using the HOT marks (there are two sets; HOT is preferred); chances are you will see it down slightly
9. Slowly add fluid to the transmission through the filler neck taking care to check often to be sure you are not overfilling. On reaching the full line, stop
10. Replace the dipstick and you are finished with this task

As you can see, it is an easy task. It just requires a little steadiness and patience. You will achieve your result.

The other area that might be troublesome, and which spells a large bill, is the torque converter. From the description you give, though, this is unlikely.

Here’s the scoop on your Neon’s manual. You are entirely correct. The transmission does not have a filter, as opposed to an automatic that does have a filter (it’s due to the fact that the automatic requires lots of fluid to make it work).

As to pulling the tranny pan, it is also relatively easy. After draining the transmission fluid, get under the car (or put it up on a lift if you have access to one; a set of ramps or a hydraulic floor jack will do as well, though you have to remember to block the wheels as a safeguard against rolling) and carefully unbolt the transmission pan.

Carefully remove the pan and put aside in a pail or something similar to prevent dripping on the floor. Let it dry and then check the edges to be sure that there are no dents or other issues that would prevent a tight fit when you close it up. Do the same on the transmission housing, as well. Be sure to obtain the right gasketing and, following directions on the gasket box, line the edge of the transmission pan with the gasketing material and place it carefully on the transmission housing. Then, carefully torque down the bolts (14), being sure not to overtighten them as you will distort the housing the problem may just continue. It’s a good idea to tighten the bolts with a torque wrench. Each of the bolts has a certain metric to which it must be tightened and no more. You can find them in a shop manual for your Neon. If you do overtighten the bolts, then, as noted, you might damage the rim and the problem with leaking may just continue, even though you solved it with the installation of new gasketing.

When everything is buttoned up correctly, refill the transmission with 2.6 liters of ATF-4 and you are good to go.

Let me start this one by asking you whether you have checked the automatic transmission fluid lately? If the tranny is low on fluid, it is quite possible for your problem to occur. Let’s say your Marquis’ transmission was just on the ragged edge between a good level of ATF (automatic transmisson fluid) and not enough. Because the fluid is low, it takes time for the internal pressure to build to the point where all of the tranny’s parts have enough fluid flowing in which to work. The increased pressure forces the transmission fluid to move throughout the device case so it appears, most of the time, that everything is well and good.

Then there is that one time where it hesitates or goes out of gear or won’t go into a gear. That’s what makes me think your transmission is down a bit on fluid. I don’t think it much more than this, honestly.

To check out this condition all you have to do is part the Marquis on a flat surface, let the sedan warm up for about 15 minutes, set the parking brake, run the vehicle through each gear to assure that the ATF is distributed, remove the transmission dipstick, wipe it and then take a new reading. Be sure to look at the “hot” reading (it is marked on the dipstick).

If your Marquis is down a bit, go to your Ford/Lincoln dealer and pickup the proper ATF (Ford uses a special formulatiion), pour it down the filler neck (transmission) and drive your car a bit to get the new ATF mixed with the old.

It sounds like your VW is exhibiting a more than a bit of transmission slippage. You can tell that the transmission is slipping because of the high engine rpms and the weird shifting pattern (lifting off to get the Jetta into gear or really revving the engine to get it to engage).

Slipping could be caused by badly worn bands or a worn clutch pack or badly worn gearing, or it could be combination of all three. Or, it may just be the result of a severely clogged automatic transmission fluid filter.

Whatever the ultimate cause, slipping is one of the most troubling problems to track down. It usually indicates your transmission needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

Which one should you choose? Have a trained technician teardown the transmission to see if there are many good parts that can be reused and how many parts have to be replaced. If you can save a number of parts — which will save you money — then a rebuild is a good idea as you only need to replace the parts that have to be changed. If, however, the technician finds that there isn’t much that can be saved, then a replacement is in order.

A rebuilt will cost you between $2,000 and $2,500 while a replacement will cost you about $3,000 with labor.

The most important part of your post was, it seems, the last statement: “Had 139,000 miles on car when…” The reason this is important is simply this: at 139,000 anything can go for any reason. For instance, when you brought your car in for the check and had the multi-point checks (it is called a “safety check” in the car business) looked into, the technician did, indeed, check all fluid levels. The multi-point tests mandate that the technician look at the fluids with an eye toward replacing the most commonly replaced fluids, oil, anti-freeze-coolant and so on. Fluids such as brake fluid and transmission fluid are considered differently than fluids that might have to be replaced or refilled much more often. Today’s sealed transmissions say that one only has to replace the transmission fluid at 100,000 miles on some lines. Brake fluid is considered the same. Given that reality, it is easy to see why the technician indicated he checked the transmission fluid. He did check the fluid only insofar as the level was concerned. He didn’t check the quality.

Since he did check the level, he knew that there was enough fluid in the transmission. He also did the transmission check correctly, allowing the vehicle to come up to operating temperature and letting the fluid circulate before measuring the level on the dipstick. When you checked it, it seems like the transmission was cold, after your car had not been driven for a few hours. If this is the case, then what you were seeing when you took your measurement was the result of the transmission fluid dripping out of the upper parts of the transmission and back into the pan/sump. Since most of the fluid — when the car and transmission are cold — is not measured and is not available to be measured, it stands to reason that you may have had a reading that was down a quart. Besides, even if it was down a quart or a little less, it doesn’t mean you have to add anything. If the hot measurement indicated the transmission needed a refill then you have to refill it, if not, don’t as it is easy to overfill as you found out.

Now, getting to the mileage figure. Though many cars, at 139,000 miles, are perfectly fine, others are beginning to go. The cause, at this point, really doesn’t matter, but what does matter your interpretation. Instead of reaching for something because it looks like the obvious candidate to you, you should wait until the shop had a chance to check things out and give you another report. At 139,000 miles, it is likely your car is starting to go from plain old-age, nothing more.

Here’s a thought, go for it. The Murano is an excellent investment and, even at $2,000 (full price). Be sure, though, that body is in good shape, especially around the wheel wells.

As to the hesitation, the Murano’s transmission is known as a CVT or continuously variable transmission. There are no specific gears as the transmission control computer and the engine’s control computer try to maintain the best gearing for each specific speed. Each computer reads its sensors (some of the are actually the same) and applies its own logic to the condition to determine what to tell the transmission. The transmission responds by moving the many planetary gears into position so that the gearing is correct.

The CVT relies on a series of planetary gears that are continuously meshing and unmeshing to maintain the best transmission settings. Sometimes, a CVT will seem to be slipping or hesitating as the vehicle moves when it really is not. Instead, the gears are actually working correctly but are taking a longer time to do their job. The reason is just age. Here’s an example, there’s an older Murano living not far from here whose body is in great shape; tires are in excellent condition; the interior is excellent; the engine sounds fine, but, the tranny is sort of sluggish and seems to hesitate. It has been checked and everything is clean. It is just age. The owner did have a filter and fluid job done not long ago (filter and fluid replaced) and the fluid was in good shape, while the filter did need replacement. That was it. Everything checks out and the Murano (same year as the one you are thinking of buying) is good to go.

In the case of the Murano you are considering, I would take it into a transmission shop and have the CVT looked over by a trained technician. Have them drop the pan and poke around inside to make sure that everything looks okay, that there aren’t metal shavings in the fluid or at the bottom of the pan and the like. If everything looks okay, then go for it and buy it.

Even if you have to replace the CVT, a $4,000 investment, if the body and engine are in good shape, then, given the price of SUVs today, the Murano is a steal and the investment you are making still makes this a good investment.

It’s pretty obvious that someone dropped the ball somewhere. If you paid for a four-speed transmission and the shop installed a three-speed, it’s quite obvious where the fault is. It is up to the shop to make good with the proper transmission.

The trouble is — if you had just provided a bit more information it really would have been helpful — that, although your question implied they installed the wrong transmission, it is never really stated so it’s like working on a transmission in a closed shop with the lights off and only a tiny candle for light, instead of even a worklight.

So, assuming that you contracted for the proper transmission, the shop should have installed the proper one. It is not that a three-speed transmission won’t work in a four-speed, it is just that there are some parts that may have to be adjusted like the half-shafts in the transaxle, the transaxle itself, the bellhousing, the locations of various cooling hoses and such.

You will also have to adjust the three-speed shift console, the linkages and any electronic control modules that may be affected by the four to three swap.

From the performance of the transmission you just had installed, it is obvious that the shop may not have correctly adjusted the clutches and bands and it is also obvious that they may have misjudged the amount of transmission fluid that had to be installed as it seems like your tranny’s performance indicates low fluid.

These are just broad-brush strokes of the problem. If it isn’t fixed soon, it is quite possible your Corolla will need another replacement transnmission soon. This time, though, the shop will likely have to pay for it.

Here are some thoughts on your problem. There are likely two or three causes to your problem. Off the top of my head, I think it might be transmission fluid overfilling or a clogged vent breather tube or, possibly, a pinched cooler line, if your vehicle is equipped with a transmission cooler (I have to make the assumption that it might be because you didn’t indicate the make, model or year). It may also be a plugged transmission fluid filter.

Let’s look briefly at each problem.

It is easy to overfill your car’s automatic transmission, if you aren’t careful. The correct way to refill the transmission fluid is to turn your car on and let it run for 20 to 30 minutes to bring it up to operating temperature. Next, after setting the parking brake, run the car through each gear to make sure the transmission and each gear is fully filled with fluid. Then, after putting your car back into Park, remove the transmission dipstick and replace it and then pull it out again. Since your car’s engine and transmission are at operating temperature, be sure to look at the HOT setting. If it reads on the low side, add new transmission fluid in little steps until it is back to the normal setting.

The reason that you have to bring things up to operating temperature is simple. When a transmission is cold there is no fluid in the upper part of the device. As it was cooling down, the fluid drips down into the transmission sump and out of such things as clutch packs and gearing. As much as two quarts of fluid can collect in the sump. This has to recirculate in the transmission in order to fill up the upper part of the transmission. Only when this has totally recirculated can you get a good reading. If you read the transmission dipstick when the transmission is cold, you can see how easy it is to obtain an incorrect reading. Since there are two quarts of fluid left in the sump when it is cold, a cold reading is unreliable. If you were to use the reading obtained, and the reading showed the transmission was down on fluid, you can see that you are just adding extra fluid to the transmission, throwing it into an overfilled condition. The result can be fluid shooting through the dipstick and/or the breather tube.

The other two possible causes of your vehicle’s problem — a clogged vent breather tube or a plugged transmission filter — are not likely to be the real culprits here, though, they might be and they still have to be checked. The best idea for these other checks is to have a technician look at them as they each involve some degree of transmission or engine bay tear-down to access the device and check it.

If you do take it in to have the problems checked, you are looking at anywhere from a $90 to $200 payment. It really depends on the amount of labor involved.

In general, if you are buying a new transmission case for your car, you will pay $700 for the piece, if you are buying it retail with no price break. With that said, you might talk with the service shop and manager and let them know of your situation. Frankly, there is more than a bit of room within the price so that they could cut you a break. No, it isn’t a huge break, but it is, nonetheless, a break. How much could this break be? It is likely that the break will be about 7 to 9 percent $49 to $63. Also, they may be able to show you a break on the labor so that all told you may get $100 or $125 off on the repair.

Of course, this does depend on the shop and management. It is possible that you might get less or you might get more. More than likely, if you manage to get any sort of break, it will be higher than the one outlined here as our information is based on strictly on retail.

Remember, too, that your Tucson doesn’t need a brand-new casing. Your SUV really doesn’t care whether the casing is new or used. This said, another way to keep the cost down is to look around at local auto salvage yards and wholesale used parts outlets where you will likely find the part available at a considerable savings ($300 or so in some cases).

Whatever way you choose, you can expect to save something on this.