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There’s nothing wrong with using a silicon gasket, if it was meant to be used on the Intrepid. Sometimes, a manufacturer will tell you to use a fiber gasket for a reason. The reason is that the gasket will swell after installation and fill any spaces — even microspaces — that silicon won’t find. Granted, it’s more of a pain to use a fiber gasket, but, if it is done right, then once you have the tranny back together — and the gasket has swollen up a bit filling all the spaces — you won’t have to worry about leakage.
Remember when you put the gasket on, to run a bead of ATF around the rim of the pan. This not only holds the gasket in place when you put the pan back on, but it also starts the sealing better when you have the bolts torqued down. Also, don’t overtighten the bolts, or you will deform the edge and could introduce leakage there.
Hope this all helps.
Need a replacement transmission? Quality transmissions are hard to find. Free estimate to your email.The short answer is this: if you think it’s worth an investment of about $3,000 then go ahead and have the tranny fixed. You have a large investment ready to put into the old pickup, but, are you ready to put in the money you will need to replace the transmission. Frankly, at this point, it might be a better idea to find another pickup — if that’s the way you want to go — and cut your losses because of the amount you are going to invest will make a good downpayment (or complete payment, if you can find a bargain — check a local shopper or Craigslist). It is more than likely that with an investment approaching $4,000, if you decide to replace the transmission, you are just starting down a rocky road that leads to the “nickel and dime” syndrome where you just keep throwing more money into a what will likely become a bottomless pit.
One other thing, it is more than likely you will find that with rust starting to show under the doors that the frame has more rust damage hiding out of sight so, bearing this in mind, as well, it’s probably time to let the F-150 go.
From the sound of it, your transmission is starting to slip. The problem might be in the clutch packs and bands or it might be in the gears themselves.
At any event, since your VW is at the start of the problem, you might be able to get away with a quick rebuild of those specific parts.
Have your VW checked at a transmission specialty shop to pinpoint the exact cause the problem and then ask the specialist to find the kits involved so that they can be replaced.
This may just cure the problem and if it does, you’ve just saved yourself likely $2,000 because you haven’t had to swap out the whole transmission. Let us know the results.
It quite easily could be a transmission problem, but the thing of it is that if it were a serious transmission issue, it wouldn’t just go away and disappear as you drove along. It would remain. Indeed, it would likely get worse as you accelerated because your Element would probably start to slow down while your engine’s revving would get worse. It would seem like your Honda was driving through a sea of mud.
With that said, the other clue that it is likely something mechanical is that the check engine light keeps coming on. Did your mechanic check out the diagnostic codes that might have been caught by the electronic control unit? The way ECUs work is that even intermittent codes (light winking on and off) should be caught and stored in the ECU’s nonvolatile memory. If that is the case, the Honda diagnostic reader should pickup the codes and they should point to the trouble area.
Please take your vehicle to a Honda repair shop. The reason for suggesting this is that they have the right diagnostic reader for your Element. If you took your vehicle to your local mechanic — no disrespect intended — the chances are good that while he or she might have read the codes with a diagnostic reader that the reader wasn’t Honda-specific. Honda, like most carmakers, likes to keep its “trade secrets” secret so it doesn’t give out its diagnostic software to general repair shops. Instead, the automaker only gives out the “good stuff” to its own dealerships. This may be why your mechanic found no problem.
At a guess, it sounds like your Element’s gas filter may be almost plugged up. Yes, it is allowing fuel flow, but as larger particles come through the gas line now, they cut down on the remaining flow through the system and your Element bucks. On the other hand, you could have some water mixed in with the gasoline (or if you shopped at an off-brand gas station, there might be contaminants in the gas) and when it goes through the engine and into the cylinders, the vehicle bucks.
If the transmission fluid that you used was labeled as compatible with Mopar transmissions then you are in good shape. Since NAPA is a major brand and it is labeled as compatible with Chrysler transmissions then you should be in good shape. ATF 4 (really Dexron or Dexron-based) is also compatible with Chrysler vehicles.
As to your other question, here’s a question for you, though the answer might seem obvious, it still has to be asked, you did pull off the transmission pan cover when you drained the fluid, right? Let us know the answer and we’ll fill in the rest of the blanks. The hint is the gasketing material, but please let us know your answer.
From the sound of the problem, it seems like the clutch pack for the reverse gear and the associated band are shot. The reason that one can draw this conclusion is that you say your car is performing poorly when you shift and that the vehicle manages to move in reverse but there is a strong vibration. You also note that you have to hit the accelerator hard to make the Toyota move.
Put in this light, it seems pretty obvious that the clutch/band combination is the culprit. The reason being this: if the clutch pack/band was working correctly, it would allow your transmission to remain properly disengaged until the engine and transmission had reaching the proper speed. When it had reached the proper speed, the disengaged clutch pack would engage smoothly, assisted by the band which tightens things up a bit more, moving the car ahead smartly with no other problems.
The fly in the ointment here is that since the clutch pack is slipping the engine-transmission linkage slips all of the time, when it should be a good tight bond. As your engine speeds up, the transmission keeps trying to engage but slips out of gear. Since the engine and tranny revs don’t match, primary and secondary vibrations can easily set up, noise can occur and the performance will be extraordinarily lousy.
Fixing this problem involves obtaining the proper clutch pack kit and proper band replacement kit, which will cost about $300 for just the parts. Accessing the clutch pack/band requires a fairly extensive transmission teardown which will cost about $800. Putting it together, this repair will cost you about $1,100.
And, while the transmission is open, you should have the transmission take a look at the major subsystems and see any other systems that need replacement. Since the clutch is shot and since your transmission had had the wrong ATF installed, the chances are very good here that there are other systems that need work. It’s best to do it now before the transmission suffers further damage and increases the cost even more.
Because your Sierra just stopped, it is probably an electronic problem. If the problem were mechanical, then your pickup would still be moving, albeit haltingly because the transmission would be slipping Or the tranny would be slamming between gears, while your pickup would still be performing poorly. In either case, though, notice that the pickup is likely to be moving, not stopped.
If, however, the transmission control module had failed, then your pickup would have performed just as you describe: it would have stopped. Then, when you went to start up again, the pickup would have started and it is likely that you would have heard the transmission trying to work with gears trying to engage, just as you describe.
Don’t worry because the transmission control module, while it is mounted on the valve body, which means accessing the device will require a partial teardown, is a relatively inexpensive device, as transmission parts go. It will likely cost you about $400 total for the work. The TCM needs to be replaced, possibly the solenoids the work with it, too.
First of all, the Express is a pretty good van but knowing the way things work underneath, the work that was done seems realistic. It’s interesting that they found it necessary to put in a heavier duty torque converter and upgraded the tranny cooling system on your 3500 since it is the enclosed equivalent of a Silverado three-quarter-ton pickup. Normally, when a salesman specs a truck at the dealership, one of the things that is asked is what kind of service the truck will be used for. It should really be asked when a van is purchased, as well because vans can be used in the same type of tough service as pickups and since the basic construction is the same (other than the surrounding shell) is would make sense to spec the van and pickup alike.
In this case, if I were to have put the spec sheet together on the van, I would have spec’d it for a tranny cooler and heavier duty torque converter, as do most of the truck salesmen I have known. The reason is simple. If the 3500 van and 3500 pickup are doing similar work, they should have similar equipment so if a pickup is going to be doing heavy duty hauling and toting (not necessarily pulling a trailer, but heavy work), then it should be fitted with the transmission cooler heavier duty equipment.
In your van’s case, it obviously wasn’t so the shop did the work that should have been done with the van was ordered. That said, though, it really should have cured the problem. I would tell you to sit down with them and have them explain the repairs they have done thoroughly. If they had rebuilt the tranny to spec then they should also have replaced the clutches, bands, control solenoids and control module as a matter of course. Ask why it was not done as it should have been, if they were doing a total rebuild of your transmission which your question seems to indicate was done. If they answer isn’t satisfactory, contact the owner of the business and ask the same question and if the answer still isn’t satisfactory, contact your local consumer protection office to see what steps you can take.
I would think that since they indicated they did a major rebuild of the transmission that it should be working correctly. Indeed, they should have swapped out the TCM for new on the rebuild without thinking about it. If they tried to used the old TCM with the new rebuilt parts, then they should fix the issue as quickly as possible and then should refund you a portion of the fee you paid because they did not do the work they signed up to do or that should have been done.
Oh, the second opinion about the thermostat, it isn’t very accurate, at all.
The mechanic who told you your Silverado needed a transmission kit knocked it out of the park with his work estimate.
From everything you have said — jerking into gear, slipping out of gear, working overtime (likely over-revving) — it sounds like the clutches and bands are shot and it is likely that the torque converter isn’t setting up the proper flow of transmission fluid so the device works correctly, at the same time. And, it is quite likely that the gears are also having problems as well.
What this all means is that your Silverado’s transmission should be replaced. You might try to find a replacement unit from a salvage yard, but you have to be careful to make sure that it is working correctly before you put down any money to purchase it. If you do find a good, used unit grab it as it will save you substantially over the $3,000 you will spend for a rebuilt transmission. You might save as much as $1,500.
Here are a couple of thoughts for you to check out. First, take a look at the transmission fluid level. If it is down a bit, say half-a-quart, it might be just enough to change the internal pressure so that it would take longer to shift into gear. After it does go into gear, it is likely the temperature has come up enough and the transmission fluid has expanded enough so that vanes that might not have been covered by fluid are now covered the transmission works properly.
To check the fluid, park the Outback on a flat surface; set the parking brake and put it into park (you set the brake as a precaution). Then, let the Outback idle for about 20 minutes to bring it up to temperature and then, with your foot on the brake because you are taking out of Park, run the Outback through each gear so that fluid circulates throughout the transmission. Then, after you put it back into Park, pull out the transmission dipstick and take a reading between the HOT settings. The chances are very good that you will find the transmission down a bit. Why would this happen? Over time, transmission fluid does heat up and burn off a bit because it is primarily an organic. So, it is quite normal for transmission fluid to drop a bit.
To refill, obtain the fluid recommended by the Outback’s manufacturer and refill it only until you reach the top line on the HOT setting.
The other possibility is that the torque converter may be having a problem in that it might not be generating enough force to cause the transmission to slip into gear. If this is the case, then have a trained technician take a look at it and see if the torque converter cannot be repaired as it sounds like the rest of the transmission is in good shape.
One other possibility, though it is a long shot, is that one of the solenoids (there are usually two) that actually set up each specific gear may be slightly lazy. If this is the case, then it should also be replaced.
All told, the repairs should cost anywhere between $160 (solenoid) to $700 for the torque converter.
From the sound of it, your transmission could be ailing in two places, either the bands or clutches. Normally, when the transmission is operating correctly, the clutches are responsible for engaging and disengaging transmission and the engine. They work with the bands which tighten up, causing them to actuate.
If the bands are tightening unequally then it is quite possible for your Montego to shoot backward faster in reverse than in forward simple because the band that actuates the reverse gear may be tightening up and more quickly and surely than the band that tightens up for first. The forward band may be slipping.
The clutches, like the bands, may be engaging more quickly in reverse than in forward and that could also cause your Montego to operate as you describe.
Either way, you are looking at some major work for the transmission that will likely mean a major rebuild or replacement is necessary because it is possible other systems that work with the clutches and bands could also be worn out.
In any event, the repairs will cost between $2,250 and $2,800.
From the sound of your problem, it doesn’t appear that the transmission is at fault. It is, more than likely, a mechanical problem, not a transmission issue. When you said that you tried “popping the automatic in 3rd gear when stopping and NO noise” it should alert you that the problem is not tranny-related. If it were transmission-related, then the noise would have appeared when you tried shifting in third when you stopped.
Since it doesn’t appear to be the transmission, what else could it be? It is likely somewhere in the driveline and that includes the engine, transmission, driveshaft, differential and rear half-shafts. In the case of your XJS, the problem is probably with the driveshaft. What is likely happening is that something is out of true in either the driveshaft or the half-shafts on the other side of the differential.
If one of the half-shafts is out of true then it is likely loading the gearing in the differential inequally so that when the driveshaft, when the vehicle slows, is not true when it spins and it slips out, causing the clunk you hear.
That’s the good news for your transmission, at least. For you, though, you are looking at driveshaft, differential or half-shaft repair that will still cost, possibly, $1,200 in total repairs.
It sounds like the synchronizers in your Honda’s transmission are shot. Normally, the synchronizers bring the equalize the speeds of the engine and transmission so that shifts go smoothly without the annoying “crung” you hear when you are late shifting between gears.
Normally, if you shift anywhere near the actual shift-point where the engine and transmission are in synchronized, there’s really no issue as the system allows for this type of slip. The result is a pretty noiseless shift because everything revving at the same speed.
If, however, the synchronizers are worn to any degree, they are unlikely to spin up correctly and the upshifts or downshifts will be noisy (grinding).
The only solution to this problem is replacement of the synchros. The cost, depending on the number of devices that have to be repaired, could run up to $1,000 or a bit more.
It’s not necessarily true that if the clutches are just starting to go that you will lose the gear altogether. Let’s assume that the clutch pack is just starting to go. What are the symptoms? The most common ones are going into and out of gear; staying in gear for awhile and then slipping out; using manual shifting to engage the clutch pack involved and then shifting up to the next gear.
It is probably only a matter of time — there is actually no predicting when; it could run like this for hours, days or weeks — before the clutch wears out altogether and the transmission hangs up.
You added something interesting to your list of symptoms. I noticed just now that you said your Montero will “accelerate under moderate throttle and it will go into neutral at around 1,200 rpms, too early to be going into 2nd.” That also shows that the problem is a lot bigger than you think it is.
When a transmission starts to have problems holding the right rpm and not shifting at the right spot, it also says there is slippage going on. Now, you might be right that it is not totally the fault of the clutch pack, but, the suspicion certainly points in that direction. And, yes, it could be bad solenoid pack on the transmission control solenoids (your minivan has two) that could be causing a problem with your gearing. It could easily account for the variance in the shift rpm and it can cause your Montero to perform just as you describe it. And, yes, you will have to check out this possibility, but, the money is still on clutch pack or clutch pack/band damage.
Let’s go back to your original question when you described the problem. You said the tranny was badly overfilled. It certainly was at two quarts over the fill mark. This is a situation that your transmission cannot tolerate for long. It involves the way the tranmission works and since you have done some diagnostic work already on the device, it is likely that you know exactly how the transmission work, however, a little basic refreshing never hurts.
In operation, the automatic begins by spinning up the torque converter spins up and starts the flow of transmission fluid through the turbine blades and into all parts of the transmission (this is a simplification). This is essentially still on the outside of the transmission as the fluid the torque converter has started to move has not yet had a substantial impact on the internals of the transmission. From this point, though, things happen fairly quickly as the now moving fluid is redirected to the proper path to engage reverse, assuming you are backing out of a parking space. In this redirection, the fluid is sent through the route that sets up reverse. It first encounters the proper solenoid that activates reverse. The fluid then, using second gear, sets up the proper planetary gear alignment (involving second gear and others at the same time) so that your transmission goes into reverse. At this point, the transmission activates the reverse clutch pack and band so that the transmission is linked through the pressure plate to the driveshaft and, through the U-joint, the rear wheels so that your Montero backs up.
Now, moving the selector to D (first), the transmission fluid is redirected from the reverse path to the forward path and a flow is set up that is activated by the control module solenoid (its proper firing is the key to the proper operation of your transimission). When the solenoid is energized, the path that is chosen is first gear and the proper planetary gearing is set up for first. Let’s assume everything is fine to this point, but the clutch pack is beginning to go. At this point, the solenoid fires, setting the gearing to first and the fluid has been routed not only past to the first gear but it also has activated it. The only step that remains after this point (in broad terms) is that the clutch pack and band must engage and your vehicle should move out.
Do you see what could be happening here and why it may be that the clutch pack is on the way out? If the clutch pack is breaking down, it is slipping and not sending the fluid to the pressure plate so your Monetero is not going to move forward. If it is only starting to go bad, it can easily re-engage or, it can be put into gear manually, and work correctly. The only thing is that you don’t know how long it will be until failure happens and you are stuck in traffic with horns blaring away. It’s best not to take chances, so have this device fixed.
Yes, it does look like something else at this point — having the TCM solenoid checked is always a good idea — but it’s most likely the clutch pack that is shot. The damage occurred when the transmission was overfilled.
Normally, a transmission is meant to operate at a specific pressure. The pressure is related to a properly filled transmission (up to the mark and no more). When it is at the proper pressure, everything “plays together” nicely. When you begin to experience severe overpressure parts are damaged. Clutch packs are forced to slam into action and bands tighten with too much force. Even check valves in the valve body slam home with too much force, potentially damaging them. It is not a nice environment. It is not something that should be left unattended for long. You never did say how long the transmission ran overfilled, but a good guess is a long while. The time that it was overfilled led the problem you are havig now.
You have this right! It is quite obvious that your Montero has a rebuilt tranny installed. It is also obvious that the former owner really didn’t know how to keep the transmission in good shape because of the overfill.
Most of your current problem — your transmission is slipping badly — is related to the overfill. Because of the added pressure, the transmission fluid likely was flowing through the transmission at a higher-than-normal rate of speed, stressing the parts to the breaking point. It is quite likely that the clutches and bands have gone. It is also possible that not only are the clutches and bands bad but also that the gears may be gone as well (your vehicle has several sets of planetary gears installed each of which, or in combination with other sets, represents a specific gear).
Given the immediate problems, you are looking at replacing the transmission again, unless you can find the shop where the older transmission was so obviously replaced. If you can then you may ask them if their work was warrantied, despite the change in ownership of the vehicle. If it was warrantied then you may be able to have the shop eat most, if not all, of the cost. Or, you may get a split with them. All you can do is try and ask, if you can find the information.
If you cannot find the shop where the work was done and you have to replace the transmission then you are looking at a $3,000 cost.
This one seems pretty straightforward, one of the transmission control solenoids. Your Pontiac likely has If this device fails, your Grand Prix will shift in the manner you describe.
The transmission control solenoid, which takes its direction from the transmisson control module (TCM), is near the top part of the transmission food chain, so to speak. The transmission control module — also known as the transmission control computer — takes information from a variety of sensors and modules as it makes split-second decisions on which gear the Grand Prix should shift to. The sensors include the mass airflow sensor, the manifold air pressure sensor, the throttle position sensor, the vehicle speed sensor, wheel speed sensor, turbine position sensor and transmission fluid temperature sensor. The TCM also monitors the traction control system and the brake light switch.
Looking at the information it receives from all of these sensors, as well as information it receives from the engine control module, the TCM then activates the proper transmission control solenoid which, in turn, sets up the proper fluid flow for a specific gear. Indeed, it is the interaction of the TCM and the transmission control solenoid system that gives you the number of gears in your car. For example, the automatic that GM used in the 04 Grand Prix was a five-speed. This means that there will be two solenoids and a four-pinion gears, the combination of will give you the desired gearshift settings. The fifth speed, or overdrive, is due to the lockup torque converter setting that puts the transmission into overdrive.
As the transmission control solenoid actually controls most of your gear choices, you can see just how important this electronic device is. Actually, it is little more than a control plunger that, when it is turned on, activates in order to direct the flow of transmission fluid. Without their proper performance, you have no transmission at all.
The good thing is that, usually, the transmission control solenoid is mounted externally on the valve body so that all you or your technician has to do is locate the carrier, remove the solenoid, if it is needed, and then replace the failing solenoid. This should solve your problem for under $350.
If it doesn’t it is more than likely a problem with the clutch pack, band, gearing or the torque converter, any of which can means a rather hefty repair bill.
Well, here’s the good news! The transmission fluid is okay. Transmission fluid only is pink or reddish when it is new. As it ages a bit — and warms up and cools down — it begins to change color, eventually becoming red-brown and then brown. It does take a few months, but it is very normal.
And, now here’s the bad news. It sounds like your minivan is close to losing second gear. The reason it is only close, at this point, is because you can shift down to the 1 setting and then upshift from there. It’s obvious that, at this point, the transmission is still recognizing the gear combination that makes the vehicle go into first and that there is still enough left of second that everything will line up and go into second. How long it will last, though, is up in the air.
As second gear usually works with reverse, if you let it go much further you will probably lose reverse very soon and you may have other problems on the road — your minivan may not be able to move or, if it does, you may have only first gear.
You are going to have to fact the fact that your transmission needs some work, however, if you can get at it right now, the chances are good you may be able to replace a couple of clutch packs and/or bands or gearing and you will be good to go. This will be expensive, there’s no doubt of it, but, $1,500 for the work is better than the $3,000 you will have to spend if you wait much longer. If you do, then you will have to replace the transmission with another one or buy one from a salvage yard and hope it still have lots of life you (a less expensive alternative, but, not without risks).
If you found that the fluid was black and cloudy when you drained it, you are right that the former owner never had the it changed. The automatic transmission fluid (ATF) has probably been there since the vehicle rolled out of the showroom 15 years ago. With that said, though, and with the information that fourth is starting to act up a bit and that you found some rather large metal shards captured by the magnetic plug/bolt, it is also more than a good bet that something is amiss in the bell housing.
Since the Outback is shifting normally in three of the four gears and fourth is acting a little funny, it’s a good bet that you’ll find the clutch pack or band assembly may have had been damaged recently. The damage is still minor enough so that the transmission is working but you will likely have to have your shop take a look at the transmission much sooner than later. The fact also is that if you act now your chances are good of keeping the damage minimum are also excellent. If you wait a bit then the damage will likely be much more extensive.
So, here’s a recommendation: take the Outback to a local transmission specialist, unless you feel competent that you can do the teardown yourself (interestingly you’ll find some rather good training videos on YouTube — just follow them step-by-step and you can do the work, although you will need some specialized tools and a lift or hydraulic floor life), and have the transmission torn down and inspected. Ask for a report on what the specialist finds. The chances are pretty good that you will find any damage has been limited to the clutch packs/bands or the gears (to enable the various gear choices, your transmission uses a number of planetary gears, activated by solenoids and other electronics, to work properly).
If the damage has been limited to these particular systems you are in luck because repairing them will cost you far less than replacing the transmission (actually a tranxaxle). With the inspection and report and repairs, you will still be looking at an investment in the $1,200 to $1,400 range (maybe less), but it is far less than the $3,000 or so you would spend replacing the entire transmission.
Your Toyota is exhibiting classic signs of a slipping transmission. It is something that should be remedied, as you can guess, speedily because you need your car.
As to the specific cause, it could be one of several things. For instance, the torque converter may be having problems and may not be sending the correct transmission fluid flow to the clutch packs and bands. Or, it might be the clutch packs themselves that are not receiving enough transmission fluid to hold a gear. The packs, themselves, could also be gone or are on the way out, so they may have to be replaced.
It is possible, though it is doubtful, that the throttle cable could be out of adjustment. The reason that this is not likely the cause is that your car continues to slip out of gear. If it was the throttle cable, alone, then your car would perform poorly throughout its range and your transmission would try to engage, if it didn’t remain engaged, all of the time.
Several other areas to look at include the pressure control module or shift solenoid. If these devices aren’t performing well then your car will shift as you describe it. However, like the throttle cable, it isn’t likely to the be case.
You should also have the following sensors checked to be sure that one of the more than a dozen sensors or modules that affect your transmission are performing correctly. The speed sensor, the mass air flow sensor and the manifold air pressure sensor should also be checked. Again, it is unlikely your car is having problems with these devices as it seems your problem is transmission-related, not mechanical.
Just to be on the safe side make sure that your car’s catalytic converter system is performing correctly as a plugged cat can also cause your vehicle to perform poorly. Again, though, this is just a precaution as the plugged catalyst would make your car run poorly through all gears. Notice it says “through all gears” and that’s because it is not likely your car would slip out of gear, though anything is possible.
Getting back to your car’s specific problem, your first step should to either check the level of the automatic transmission fluid yourself or have your service technician check it for you. Be sure that when it is checked, the vehicle is fully warmed up and that you have run the car through the gears before the dipstick is pulled out. This is to ensure that fluid gets to the whole transmission. (To check the transmission, if you are doing it yourself, you have to part the car on a flat surface, set the parking brake and let the car warm for 20 minutes — 15 minutes if you drive it. Somewhere in the warmup be sure to put your foot on the regular brakes and then run your car through the gears so that the transmission fluid gets into every gear. After 20 minutes or so — having run the car through the gears — pull out the transmission dipstick, wipe it clean and reinsert it. Then, draw it out and look at the level marked HOT. It will likely be okay, but it doesn’t hurt to check. If it is not up to the right level, then purchase the proper transmission fluid for your car — most manufacturers recommend either their own brand or a proper replacement — and fill it up to the right level.
Honestly, it is more likely that your Toyota needs work, probably more than you expect, as the slippage indicates that there is a more than likely a problem with either the clutch packs and/or the bands. The clutch packs are likely worn to the point where they are not sensing the flow of transmission fluid properly so they are not holding the gear. The bands are likely failing as well.
What all this means is that you are facing will likely be a heft repair bill. There is no sense trying to nickel and dime the replacement by just replacing the clutch packs or the bands or both because, once they are placed, they will put more strain on other parts that are likely to fail, in turn, causing you more problems. This means you should have the transmission replaced with a rebuilt unit. The cost will be in the $2,500 to $2,800 range. You may be able to cut your cost is to have your technician check with local salvage yards to see if there might not be a transmission salvaged from a Toyota like yours that is in good condition with reasonably low mileage that will fill your car’s needs and have it swapped in. It is likely a transmission swap will save you $800 to $1,000, plus the cost to the salvage yard.
First, DO NOT FLUSH the transmission or DO NOT HAVE IT FLUSHED. Yes, this advice does go against what you may have heard or read elsewhere, but, there’s a huge problem with flushing, especially in an older transmission. It has to do with the way the flush works. To flush a transmission, a hose is attached to the transmission fluid filler assembly and is pressurized quickly, blowing everything out of the transmission, fluid, deposits, bits and pieces of metal and anything else that may have accumulated. In turn, the pressurized material surges through every part of the transmission scourging the passages, channels and galleries clean. However, in that comprehensive pressurized cleaning is also the problem — larger objects can damage delicate transmission parts and may either create problems or enhance existing problems. You see, the pressurized shards that may be blasting around the bell housing can also take pieces out of parts of the valve body, knock out tiny, but important, check valves, damage rings or clutch packs or more. So, instead of using a flush, simply drain the transmission through the drain outlet, allowing as much of the transmission fluid as possible to drain out. Admittedly, this will leave about a quart inside so what you will have to ask your transmission shop to do is drop the pan to remove the last quart and, if they find nothing on inspecting the pan (they will likely find grit and gunk in the pan and, possible metal shards if there is metal-to-metal contact) asking them to reseal the unit. After it is resealed, add new automatic transmission fluid to the proper point and you are all set.
As to your specific question, since the Galant has 193,000 miles on the clock, it is only appropriate to remove the transmission fluid and replace the filter. The color of the transmission fluid tells you that, since it is brownish-black. It also tells you something that you should find very hopeful — there may just be nothing wrong at all with the transmission.
If the transmission fluid was totally black and somewhat thick it may indicate that the fluid has started to burn. Burning indicates that heat is being generated somewhere, usually from metal-to-metal contact such as bands or gears rubbing against one another and wearing. Since the transmission fluid is organic it can burn and if there is heat being generated it then will burn and pick up a burned odor. Pull out the dipstick, when you have a moment, and take a sniff of the fluid, if it smells burned then you have an overheat problem somewhere that is likely caused by metal-to-metal wear. However, since you did not indicate that there was a burned smell, it likely means the only item of wear you are describing is the color of the transmission fluid.
With 193,000 miles on the Galant, it is quite apparent that the transmission fluid should be worn and its color should be changing to black-brown. Since there is a brownish tint to the fluid, it really does indicate that it is just old and that there are unlikely to be other problems with the fluid, itself.
Yes, it is a great idea to drain — properly — the transmission and replace the filter and then refill with the proper transmission fluid. However, here is where the issues may start (you indicated you were worried about this in your question). It is very likely that over the length of time the fluid has been in the transmission things may have worn down and dirt may have built up in some places. In other places, it is likely that deposits may have settled out of the fluid and onto transmission parts. The reason the deposits form is because the transmission fluid has lost its detergent characteristics, allowing the deposits to start up. It really doesn’t matter whether the deposits are on the blades of a clutch pack or are located in galleries within the valve body. What matters is that the deposits exist and what happens when you introduce new transmission fluid.
Because the detergent characteristics have been restored, the deposits that have existed are likely being cleaned, exposing surfaces that have not been immersed in transmission fluid in a long time. It is possible that the deposits may have leached out some of the metal or that metal filings may be trapped in the gunk that makes up a deposit and when the deposits disappear the shards are then free to go throughout the transmission potentially damaging other areas. Further, since fluid flows may have been reduced by the deposits, restoring them to full pressure could easily damage old parts, causing them to break and causing further damage.
All told the time has come, the transmission is saying, to think of replacing it. It certainly doesn’t owe you anything — neither does the fluid but that’s another story as was just noted — and, if you get another 150,000 miles out of the Galant for just the investment of $2,800 for a replacement transmission, then you are still coming out ahead.
It’s nothing like that. Let’s look at the whole picture, for a start. Your 1500 is 4X4, so you have to start thinking in terms of two wholly different vehicles, the front end truck and the back end truck (it may sound silly to say this, but it isn’t because your vehicle has two differentials and what amounts to two driveshafts, at times, of course).
As unlikely as it may seem, have your technician check your driveshafts for trueness and roundness. When you have your driveshafts “checked for true” the technician checks to see if there is any flexion going on. Flexion is another way of saying flexing and it is possible that the center of one or both of the shafts could be slightly more maleable under stress and heat and is therefore causing the shaft to spin with a slight judder or shimmy. It may not be very noticeable because it is covered up by noisy and truck movements but it is, nevertheless, a real problem. In turn, it will cause other shafts and linkages to be slightly “out of true” and the result will be damage. In this case, the cumulative effects of slight misalignments (out of true) can easily lead to failing transmissions (multiple). Also, be sure the shafts are actually round. If they are slightly oval, then the centrifugal weight carried by the shafts and its inertia that is entered into the general movement of the engine. Since this is additive, this is carried into the transmission and it can damage the tranny quite severely.
By the same token, the gearing in the differential itself may be skewing the rotation of the shafts and if it is then you are introducing issues into the entire transmission/driveshaft/wheel system that can cause serious internal damage to the transmission.
The problem definitely is not transmission-related as you have replaced five, one after the other, that were working before they were placed in your truck. It is more than likely in the shafts or differentials, making it a mechanical problem.
Your Civic is equipped with an electronic traction control system, as well as traction equalization which is something similar but is really more of a balancing act. What you are feeling as you shift is the traction control system trying to keep your wheels from spinning as you move through the gears. It’s quite normal.
When I heard your complaint that was the first thought. It still remains one of the primary culprits in your Silverado’s problem as the symptoms you are describing are classic torque converter problems.
The thing is, though, that you say there is a click-click sound when you go through the gears and there is a continuous clicking coming from the bellhousing. That tells me that the solenoids (actually relays that cause circuits to fire in sequence) are trying to work and that there is a problem in their circuitry.
If — and I think it is the primary culprit — this is the case, then, have your technician take a look at all of the electronics in the transmission. Apart from the TCU (transmission control unit) there may be anywhere from 10 to 15 sets of sensors or control modules involved in your transmission’s proper operation.
I honestly think your torque converter is fine as your pickup is trying to go into gear but you are getting the clicking sound. That sound, itself, indicates an electronic problem. See if the technician can pull any transmission diagnostic codes from your truck’s diagnostic memory. If the tech can, then it may indicate an area where to look. If not, the TCU may have stored an error code that will indicate where the fault lies.
In any case, you are more than likely looking at an electrical/electronic problem that is far less costly to repair than a major transmission system or subsystem.
You might try a rebuild in place. A rebuild in place (actually it’s more like spread all over a garage floor or bench) involves taking your current tranmsmission apart, picking out the good pieces of that can be reused, adding the kits that need to be added, putting it back together and buttoning it up.
This might seem like the way to go in your case, but, think about this. The clutch packs require major disassembly work to reach and if they are gone, it is likely that your bands are gone. In this case, the solenoids that cause it to work correctly will also likely have to be replaced, just to be on the safe side. These are just a few of the major assemblies that interact directly with the clutch packs to enable your transmission to shift. Given that parts of the valve body may also have to be replaced, including, probably more than one check-valve, you are already looking at what is essentially replacing the transmission with nearly all new parts. And, you are also looking at a huge, unneeded, expense. The expense of finding, purchasing and replacing the parts that have failed as part of the rebuild is the same as if you had replaced the transmission in the first place.
You could, on the other hand, try to locate a used transmission at a salvage yard from another vehicle that is similar to yours. The key problem with this is that you won’t know the condition of the replacement transmission until you have it put into your vehicle. You might be lucky and it could work correctly for years. In this case, you will have saved between $1,000 and $1,500.
On the other hand, if the replacement needs work itself, then you could be out that much again and you still won’t have a repaired transmission.
The only real solution — you might not want to hear this but it’s true — is to bite the bullet and have the transmission replaced. Though it will cost about $2,800 or $3,000, it is the only way you can be sure your vehicle will run well when the repairs are finished.
Fair Replacement Transmission Cost by Vehicle
- Use the Year / Make / Model lookup tool to determine what transmission your vehicle has. [transtar]
- Find your transmission model in the table below for fair prices from reputable suppliers. Also fair labor cost for local installation at a local auto repair shop.
- Get a free estimate on a remanufactured transmission by email.
Fair Remanufactured Transmission Price Ranges by Transmission Model Updated May 1, 2018
