Hostgator

This is a problem that has been known about for more than 20 years. Though it deals with the same part, there are two problems that affect it. The problem is in the reverse servo. This is the device that enables the RAM series to go into reverse. Normally, when reverse is engaged, the reverse servo sets things up so that the reverse gearing within the automatic transmission operates correctly when you put the pickup into Reverse.

Over time, there are two things that can happen to the reverse servo:

1. The reverse servo adjustment nut can break off the device
2. The reverse servo body can crack and fail

In either case, the reverse servo is unable to build enough reverse pressure so that the pickup will go backward when Reverse is selected. Instead, the reverse servo simply sits there spinning, having little effect at all.

To see if this is the problem that is affecting your RAM, one test is to let the pickup warm up thoroughly. When it is warm, put it into Reverse and listen. If you hear a faint whirring, while the pickup remains still, it means the servo is only spinning vainly as it tries to do its job. It fails to set up enough pressure in the automatic transmission fluid flow to send a stream of fluid to the reverse clutches and the gear is never activated.

The obvious fix is replacing the reverse servo. The general replacement procedure is as follows:

1. Put the pickup up on a lift, pneumatic jack or ramps
2. Loosen the transmission pan cover retaining bolts a bit
3. Apply pressure to the pan, using a piece of wood as a brace, to keep any fluid from spilling out
4. Place a bucket underneath the transmission pan
5. Finish loosening the transmission pan cover; make sure the cover is over bucket to catch spills
6. Allow the transmission fluid to drain out
7. Locate and drop the Valve Body
8. Loosen the adjustment bolt on the reverse servo
9. Move the reverse servo arm out of the way
10. Remove the retaining clip
11. The assembly should be ready for removal
12. Replace the reverse servo assembly and reverse the steps to complete this task.

There are a couple of things of which you should be aware. Before you attempt this chore, you must feel comfortable handling the tools and tasks. If you don’t feel comfortable, it is best to leave it to a trained technician (probably the best idea in the first place). If you can handle the repair, you will find the cost is between $200 and $300 for the parts. If you opt for a transmission technician, the cost will be between $600 and $800.

There’s a known 2-3 shift problem with the Ford 5R55S transmission. Due to problems with the Valve Body and EPC solenoids, the internal pressure of this transmission does not remain within the parameters the manufacturer has determined are needed to keep the device on an even keel. Over time, wear in the Valve Body casting and composite sleeves protecting the servos allows the servos to lose their ability to apply the needed hydraulic pressure to the transmission’s bands. Instead of holding pressure firmly, the leaks let pressure drop so the bands back out, causing the problem.

In this situation, larger servos can take longer to fill if the overall hydraulic pressure picture in the transmission is low. The fix for this is having new end plugs and O-rings installed. The O-rings are installed on the low/reverse servo. This should fix the Valve Body problem.

The Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid/switch keeps track of your transmission’s hydraulic pressure. By regulating the pressure, the transmission can increase or decrease the amount of work the transmission does as the engine begins to work harder. The application of pressure means the powerteam (engine/transmission) works harder to change gears. The higher pressure also keeps the engine from hitting the redline.

The EPC module adjusts pressure by activating a hydraulic pump and changing the spring rates on the solenoid. It uses the pressure change to increase the amount of work the transmission must do to apply the clutch. The EPC monitors the airflow to the engine, engine RPM and throttle position to work correctly.

Though it may seem like the 2-3 shift problem is caused by low transmission fluid, it isn’t. Instead, it is hardware- and sensor-related. So, when you get your Mustang into the shop for work, suggest to the technician working on the car to look at these specific areas. Of course, getting to the EPC solenoid/switch does require getting inside the transmission so while it is open, it is time to replace other parts that might be worn, as well as the transmission fluid filter and transmission fluid. If you opt for this partial transmission rebuild, you are looking at a bill of anywhere from about $1,800 to $3,000, depending on exactly the amount of work you want done.

Since the transmission fluid is dark — and appears low — and since the tranny is going in and out of gear if you put pressure on the accelerator, your best course of action is to send the old transmission packing and install a used on. Of course, there might be good parts inside the current transmission, however, that is where those parts should stay as they have been in use for quite some time and are part of the transmission that is giving the ES300 fits.

The key clue, aside from the transmission’s performance, is the transmission fluid. Since it has not been changed in over 200,000 miles and since it is dark, it is likely the problem is being covered up to a degree by the fluid. The issue could be in the gearing, the clutch packs and bands or it might involve, and may have started with, a plugged transmission filter. The gears could actually be rubbing against one another, as could the parts of the clutch packs and/or the bands. If any of these devices are rubbing, they are shedding small particles of metal into the fluid at all times which can build up and help to turn the transmission fluid dark. If the filter is plugged, solids are not being strained from the transmission fluid and are being allowed to build up. Over time, the plugged filter can cause the fluid to darken.

Another cause is overheating and burning. Because of the way transmission is manufactured, it is susceptible to burning from overheating. Tranny fluid is made to operate properly within a narrow range of temperature at or near 200-degrees-Farenheit. If the fluid is overheated and run for any length of time, it will actually burn and degrade. You can often smell the burning by using the dipstick and sniffing the fluid. If the fluid is dark and smells burnt, you have little choice but to replace the transmission.

The price of the replacement, with labor, will be about $3,500. Some would argue that it is best to have your transmission replaced at the dealer where you purchased the vehicle as, they also argue, the dealer knows the car. Often, though, that really isn’t the case as the technician working on the transmission could be relatively new and could still be learning the product line. In this case, it is best to bring your ES300 to an independent transmission specialist as the technicians are likely to be certified by the National Institute of Automotive Service Excellence (NIASE). Since the work they do is primarily on transmissions, you can be sure that they know their subject and will give you excellent service.

It is quite obvious the “shop manager,” who had worked there for 20 years didn’t know what he was doing when he tried to work on your truck’s transmission. Because he had to call you several times and because he told you, at each step, that he was using more and more of the old transmission — not the new one or new parts — it seems logical that he is liable for the issues he has created with the fouled up repair.

It would have been so easy to have kept this from escalating if the “manager” had just owned up to the fact that the repair was beyond his or his shop crew’s experience. But, the “manager” didn’t and you are now in the pickle you are in.

You are very right, since this guy claims he is just the “manager,” to find the real owner of the shop and bring this whole mess to his attention. If he has worked with you in the past then the chances are better than equal that the owner will not want the good name and reputation of his business hurt by the manager who won’t work with you.

If the “owner” stands by his “manager,” then you have very little recourse but to find a consumer lawyer who will take this case. At the very least, you have to have the “manager” make things right so that you can drive your truck again and this will likely mean a trip to court and time in front of the judge. Be sure, if you choose this root, that the “manager” and the shop pay all costs, including yours, it is the least they can do.

When was the last time the fluid level was checked? If the fluid level falls too low, there’s nothing to circulate through the transmission and it will stop working. The engine will continue running, of course, but you won’t be going anywhere. You can easily check the transmission fluid level accurately by doing the following:

1. Locate the transmission dipstick
2. Withdraw the dipstick and wipe it off
3. Reinsert it in the dipstick neck and withdraw it again
4. Look at the fluid level; it should be between the “cold” and “hot” markings on the dipstick. If it is, then your transmission fluid is okay.

If the fluid level is okay, but there is a burned smell to the fluid, then it is possible your transmission has suffered some internal damage with gearing that has been overheated to the point of damage. Also, look at the color of the fluid. If it looks pink it is healthy, however, if it looks brown or black, it is likely burned which indicates there has been damage to your car’s tranny.

Another possibility that cannot be disregarded is this: if your transmission shows that it is full but it is still exhibiting poor or no performance, it is possible that the transmission filter could be plugged, keeping the transmission fluid from circulating. If it doesn’t circulate, then the gearing won’t turn and your car won’t move.

If it gets to this point it is likely your transmission is damaged. Just how badly damaged it is will only be shown by a tear-down and check. If it is badly damaged, you are looking at a replacement job that will cost between $3,000 and $5,000, depending on where you obtain the transmission.

Toyota is being totally unreasonable with this. I take it that you have had your Camry serviced at the same dealership where you purchased and I also take it that you have faithfully followed all of their instructions. In this case, as a show of good faith, the dealership’s principal should have offered to split the difference on the transmission with you. The cost of the transmission in your area is about $5,000 so that figure is reasonable, but you should not have to pay it. Here are a couple of suggestions that may work:

— Contact the dealership’s principal, owner, and impress upon him or her that you have had your car faithfully serviced at the dealership and suggest that they cover half of the repair. Most dealers are reasonable, especially if you are a loyal customer

— Contact the local Toyota factory office and ask for the district manager in charge of the particular area in which the Toyota dealership is located. Show the manager your paperwork and emphasize you are a loyal customer and will likely buy other Toyotas in future. They may go to bat for you with the dealership.

— Contact Toyota’s consumer relations department and tell them your story. Though it may not seem like you can do much to influence a dealer or a carmaker, the record does show that a manufacturer does not like dissatisfied customers, especially if they will be buying further cars downstream. Many times, they will urge the automaker to do what is right.

— Contact your state’s attorney general or consumer affairs department and tell them your issue. Keep all of the paperwork on your car organized and show them the papers. It may not do much, but it may just put enough pressure on the dealer so that he or she will do the right thing.

— Contact a local consumer affairs reporter and detail your story. The reporter will contact the dealer and try to work something out. This is often the best way to accomplish your goal. It does work, really.

The good news is that this problem doesn’t seem all that major. The most likely candidates are the vacuum connection from the intake manifold, the engine coolant sensor or slipping linkage. If the vacuum connection isn’t good, then the ECU isn’t receiving proper information and the shift points will vary. The shift points will be higher than normal and the shifts themselves will be hard. The engine coolant sensor works with the pressure control module. If the coolant sensor is sending bad data then the shift points could be causing higher-than-normal and hard shifts. If the linkage is slipping, then, the shift points will be off. All of these fixes are relatively inexpensive. Depending on labor, they range from about $20 for a new sensor to about $300 to fix the linkage.

There’s a very simple answer to this problem, someone blew it. The service techs should have listened more closely to you when you first reported the problem as it has all the earmarks of transmission slippage. The techs should have done the right thing and should have looked at the transmission closely. They would likely have found a clogged filter or similar issue when you first reported it. As they let the problem go, the clog then resulted in fluid starvation and now you are facing a $2,000 or so repair bill. The bottom line is that this is a problem that could have and should have been caught. It is likely an “oldtimer” might have caught it because older techs rely not only on electronics but also their experience that would have told them the issue was slippage.