Hostgator

Here are some quick thoughts on this:

1. Check the wheels and tires (there is a difference as the wheels are the metal doughnuts in the middle of the rubber): it’s possible that one of the tires could be smaller than the others and it could be setting up a resonant condition with the driveshaft. Also, make sure the wheels are all the same size.

2. Check the wheels: it is possible that one of the wheels could be slightly out of round and, again, this could be setting up a resonant condition (they both vibrate together), causing the feeling you describe.

3. Check the half-shafts on the front end: if the half-shafts are out of true (they are not perfectly circular as they turn), then it is quite possible that the resonance is being set up there and being transmitted through the body structure.

4. Check the driveshaft: it is possible that it could be slightly out of round as a magnet or weight could have shifted, setting up a slight vibration that is resonant with the body structure and causes the low rumble you are feeling.

Of course, there are many other places to look, however, when this condition sets up it is more than likely the driveshaft causing the problem as it interacts with other parts, such as the half-shafts, bearings (if they are out of round, then a resonance and rumbling will set up as you describe).

The good thing is that I honestly doubt there’s much wrong with the transmission. It’s a mechanical issue from what you have told me.

Your Camry has gone into what is known as limp-home mode. This means that there’s something wrong with something and the manufacturer wants you to be able to drive it to a service area. What do I think is wrong? To be honest, there are several areas that could be causing you problems. It might be the torque converter or the impeller side of things. It might be on the input shaft side of things just before the torque converter in the chain of parts in the transmission. It could also be the bands and clutches or it might be the gearing itself or it could also be one the output shaft side. And, of course, there’s the valve body, too.

And, then, there’s the electronic side of things. In 1994, though things weren’t as electronically complex as they are today, there were still six or eight control modules that affected the transmission. You have to look at the transmission control module and the sensors that send messages to it.

With all of that to check, here’s what I would do: I would limp the Camry over to a good independent service shop that has the diagnostic software available for your Toyota. Then, I would have an OBD-II diagnostic scan run to find out what the modules may be picking up.

If you are lucky, you’ll find that your transmission issues are related to something electronic so that all the technician will have to do is swap out a solenoid (there are two that affect your transmission as they choose the gear to shift into) or another sensor or, possibly, a module.

Or, it might indicate something you may not want to hear which is your Camry needs a rebuilt transmission which, quite honestly with you, given the age and mileage, is what your Toyota may need. However, until you have the diagnostic in hand, there’s little more that I can say. Let me know what happens.

Thanks for the update. As to the green fluid, there is something else going on here, as well. The green fluid is your anti-freeze/coolant. If you saw it, then chances are good that they may have sliced the cooling line from the radiator. You see, every transmission does have a transmission intercooler that is linked to the anti-freeze/coolant/radiator systems of your Nissan.

Now, if they managed to cut this line and your transmission overheated, then you have more ammo for your talks with the district manager. If they returned any bad parts from all their work, I would look through them and see if there is a coolant hose. If there is, then you have them. It is all on them, no doubt. If it’s only your memory then it’s a you said/they said. Yes, it is possible that you have done a bit of harm, but I don’t think too much. If you go to one of the consumer affairs departments of a local TV station, I will bet you a hamburger than you will find them caving because Jiffy Lube hates bad P.R.

Guys,

Let me put my 2-cents in, okay? Here’s a suggestion, look at the the engine control computer (ECU) first. If it has failed, it might force your engine to shutdown. Though I doubt it is honestly the central problem, it still is an area where you can start.

More importantly, get your vehicle over to a good independent shop with an updated set of error codes for your particular brand and ask them to run an OBD-II diagnostic. The readout should tell you the areas of failure in your engine or why it isn’t workng properly.

Once you have the listing you can then figure out how you want to proceed.

Just earballing it by reading your questions and comments, I’d say that the problem lies somewhere in the front end of the transmission, perhaps the torque converter or a related part. If the converter fails, then your vehicle won’t go or if it moves, it won’t move very far. If you are lucky then your vehicle goes into limp-home mode; you get one gear forward and perhaps reverse so that you can limp home or to the service area. However, since your vehicles aren’t moving, I’d suggest that the converter may be shot.

One other idea is that, as the ECU can fail, so can the transmission control unit (TCU) or the sensors used to feed information to the TCU or ECU. If any one of them or several of them have failed, then your vehicle won’t move, either.

For the last few years, there have been more and more reports of transmission electronics going off into Never-NeverLand and ending up showing one gear when a vehicle is in another. This seems to have been true of Fiat Chrysler Autos vehicles of which RAM is one.

Granted, a 2004 RAM is at the front end of the failure train because as sophisticated as transmission control computers and engine control computers were back then, they are even more so today. Indeed, there is a type of transmission known as the monostable device. Essentially, it is a big switch that you click back and forth to choose the next gear. On some vehicles, if you switch too quickly then you can mess up the transission control computer, causing the vehicle to go into the wrong gear and stay there. Now, it is possible that is what happened to your RAM. However, I don’t think it is too likely.

A more realistic explanation is also electronic and involves a pair of shift relay packs. A pair is all that is needed to control which gear your RAM is in. Now if one half of one device has gone and a half of the other device has gone then it is very possible for your RAM to operate in the way it has. I would begin my work there and go on as I suspect you will find it in this particular electronic chain.

Though you may not realize it, there is a thermostatically controlled switch that sits between the radiator/cooling system and your engine and transmission. It works off the same electrics that control the fan. Now, if you replaced the fan, but failed to either replace the switch or if you forgot about it, then what is happening is that your engine and transmission are both overheating.

An overheating engine can be controlled by a working fan or even a semi-working fan, but, an overheating fan is much harder to control because its outlets to the cooling system are much more restricted.

At this point, I don’t think you will need a replacement transmission, but, and it is a big but, it is possible that the transmission has overheated to the point where not only has the fluid burned up and become contaminated to the point where it has lost both its lubricating and cooling properties, so it is little more than an organic mess, but it is also damaging the transmission. I don’t think it is too late to turn things around, but you will have to replace the thermostatic switch as quickly as possible so you can restore cooling to not only your engne but also your transmission. Both rely on the radiator/cooling system to work correctly.

That’s a good followup question and I will answer it with one word — okay four — don’t worry about it. Yes, a Cube CVT transmission is the same year after year. Nissan, you see, relies mainly on CVT transmissions now and it just isn’t economical for them to make small changes in a transmission. It is a fairly huge expense to design a new transmission so you won’t have to worry. If it comes to a replacement (rebuilt) they can take an 09 or 10 Cube transmission and put it in with no problem.

Good luck today in your visit. I can almost guarantee that at one point or another the manager of the shop will say, “but you…” or “but your Cube…” and finish the sentence with a reason that he won’t guarantee the work (they have to whether he likes it or not as it is in their contract and it is pretty obvious it is something they did or didn’t do). Be careful, if they point out that the filter was not replaced and tell you that it’s not their fault because you didn’t authorize the added repair so they don’t have to cover it. This is a bogus stance because it is common practice within the industry to repair and replace the filter when a flush has been authorized. Press them on the point and hold out for it as they don’t have a leg to stand on here. In my opinion (remember I am just sitting here helping you a bit; I’m not a lawyer, though, I have been around this planet a few years), they stepped up and whacked a huge foul ball and now it’s time to stop arguing with the ump, even though the catcher caught it, and to do the right thing.

I would also let them know you are having the consumer affairs folks look at your problem as a little more backup (having a large club in the background always helps) and here’s something else I thought of if you have a local TV station with a good “investigative reporting” team or “help line” crew, I would call them and let them know what happens and ask them to get involved if Jiffy Lube stands there and keeps denying things. Chances are good either the consumer affairs people or, more likely, the TV folks will get you some help.

Don’t stop thinking the problem is hydraulic because I believe it is. You haven’t found the source of the issue which, I think is an air bubble somewhere in the fluid line. The reason I suspect the problem is an air bubble is that you have to shut off the engine to get a reset, so to speak.

If there is no air in the line, then, when you press the clutch in, an actuator bar presses on the fluid which ultimately activates the throwout bearing and the clutch comes away friction plate, separating the engine and transmission so you can shift. If air is in the line, at first it works with the fluid, moving along with it. Over a few minutes, the air becomes a bubble which can effectively stop the fluid from acting, at all. Once this happens, your transmission is toast until you shut down your engine and start again.

What you need to do is bleed the system so the air is pushed out, leaving just the hydraulic fluid. That hydraulic fluid, believe it or not, is likely to be the same as the fluid used in your brakes. With that said, you have to remember to keep the master cylinder cover tightly closed and clean. I mention this now because you will have to open the master cylinder cover to make sure it is full. The master cylinder is usually beside the brake master cylinder, however, it is the smaller of the two. You must open it to make sure it is full before you begin to bleed the system.

In a hydraulic transmission, you have two cylinders, the master, which I just mentioned and the secondary, often located on the other side of the engine. The line between them is stainless steel because of the corrosive nature of the hydraulic fluid. Yes, there is a fiber-carrier-covered rubber line, as well. It is the secondary line. However, even if you pinch it off, as you did, you won’t be able to tell if there’s air in the system.

What you have to do next is find the bleeder valve/screw. Now, with a friend building some pressure in the system by pumping up the clutch, open the bleeder and wait. You should see some bubbles and fluid escape. Now, repeat the process. Each time you will see bubbles and fluid. Your assistant will also have to pump up the pedal again as it has gone to the floor and is now staying there because there’s no pressure yet in the system. Eventually, there will be no more bubbles and the system should be performing correctly. I think that should solve your problem.

Take it back and have them look at the transmission problems they stuck you with. From the sound of your problem, the transmission is not only slipping, but it is also shifting improperly. There are several areas that may be causing the problem. It is possible that the torque converter is on its way out. Or, it may be that the next device downstream, the impeller, is working improperly because it is broken.

Further, it is possible that the clutches/bands are slipping which means that it won’t shift properly and it also means that the gears may not be changing and seating correctly. Again, this can cause slipping.

I would have them look closely at the clutches/bands as they may not be working properly.

Interestingly, it is possible that this is being caused electronically. In other words, there could be an electronic problem which also makes lots of sense because a transmission today is about electronics as much as it is mechanics.

For example, it is possible that the MAP (Mass Air Pressure) sensor is operating improperly. Or, the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) could be intermittent and working improperly, as well. Further, it might be that a solenoid is firing incorrectly or the TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) is sending improper information to the TCU (Transmission Control Unit).

As you can see, then, there are many possibilities. I would suggest next and OBD-II diagnostic to narrow the problem and looking at the readout from the ECU (Engine Control Unit) to see what error codes are being generated. Today’s software does an amazing job of pinpointing where a problem may be.

Next, discuss the findings with your service advisor and have the issue repaired. In general, if it is a sensor problem, it will cost, depending on the sensor between $400 and $1,000 (there may be more than one involved or it could be wiring or a combination). It might also be a combination of transmission mechanicals and electronics.

I would then suggest talking with the service manager to see if they are willing to do something about helping you out with a discount because you are experiencing something that could have been detected by diagnostic reading before the vehicle was sold. You may not hear the answer you want, but it never hurts to ask. I personally think that if your repair site — dealership in this example — being reputable should help you out, but, as I say, it is just my opinion.

I doubt it would help matters very much for a very good reason, electronics. From the sound of your problem, the issue is more than likely related to a number of sensors and solenoids.

We know the basic problem after outracing the other vehicle a few weeks ago, you have had to shift your Eddie Bauer by hand. Since shifting by hand works, it is a pretty good bet that most of the mechanicals in the transimission are in reasonably good shape. If they were not, then you wouldn’t be able to shift by hand.

Since that is the case, let’s look at some of the places where there may be problems. First, I suspect that if you were to look at the Throttle Position Sensor in the Eddie Bauer, I think you would find that it may be either open or short. A TPS sensor that is in bad shape can behave in the way your SUV is acting. Also, believe it or not, if the Mass Air Flow or Manifold Air Pressure sensors are bad, they can also contribute problems like you describe. Then, there are sensors that look at the crankshaft that might also be bad. As you can see, there are plenty of ways for this problem to happen.

Another area to look at — the one I think is your SUV’s primary problem — is at the solenoid stack. There are anywhere from two to four solenoids that control your vehicle’s choice of gear. If the solenoid pack or packs for the gearshift is shot then you will have to shift by hand until the solenoids are replaced. In addition, it is possible that the loom that carries their wiring has gone bad and if that is the case there could be multiple wires shorting out, as well. That could also imitate solenoid failure. If that is the case, the problem becomes tougher to solve because the technician will have to look at each wire in the loom to find out where and which wires are failing and then when the signal is stopping.

In addition, it could be that age and corrosion have attacked some parts of the overall communications loom for the transmission and if that is the case, it will have to be replaced, as well.

It’s funny but electronic problems in today’s transmission seem to be the ones that are causing many or the problems that technicians see. And, it is equally funny that the problems can emulate mechanical problems such as a failing torque converter or failing clutches and bands or even failing gears.

My money is on an electronic failure. To find it, the techician will have to run an OBD-II diagnostic, as the first step to see where the problems might be. And, if it appears that the sensors are failing, the tech will then have to take an old-fashioned volt-ohhmeter and ohm out each line that might be reported as failing to see where the problem is.

My suggestion would be to replace the sensors and solenoids and the wire looms to make sure that everything works correctly. Unfortunately this is very labor-intensive and it might easily approach the cost of a rebuilt transmission or about $3,500 or so. Yes, it is expensive, but, if you want to keep the SUV on the road, then you will have to pay it.

First, get it into a good, independent shop and have them give it a thorough diagnostic. It might just come down to a failing, in-line fuse somewhere that I am not even thinking about right now. That is certainly a much-less-expensive alternative. Let me know what happens.

Let me answer your second question first. I would honestly advise you to give this a pass. The transmission is nothing you want to try as your first heavy duty do-it-yourself experience. Why, just field stripping and reassembling a tranny without having the proverbial 10 or 15 screws and nuts left over is daunting to even experienced do-it-yourselfers. Yes, it looks easy on YouTube, but, you have to remember that the guys who are doing it are experienced transmission techs who, for the most part, eat and breathe transmissions. If you really want to try something on the tranny, try replacing the solenoid packs, which will require some disassembly, as your first step and then move on from there.

As to your specific question, since it is synchronous (it is in sync with) the amount of gas given at any given time, it sounds to me as if it is more like the impeller part of the torque converter — it’s a twofer, converter/impeller. That is the device that really spins at high speeds in response to the feed from the converter.

It is possible, though, that it might be the bands/clutch assemblies further down the transmission chain. In other words, there are three major possibilities, right at the start.

My suggestion is take your van to a good independent transmission shop and have the foreman or lead tech take it out for a test drive. If they have been in the business for any length of time, they will likely be able to “ear” the problem as they listen. In this case, experience speaks louder than other words.

Once that test drive is done and the tech has talked with you, ask for a diagnostic OBD-II test to see if the computers are reporting any other problems. Between the two, you will find the answer. I suspect you may be right about the exact cause and I would mention it to the tech, but, at the same time, let experience work for you here.

Today’s transmissions are nearly as much electronic as they are mechanical so I suspect that one of the sensors used by the transmission may have failed. First, I would get an OBD-II scanner and see if it might show you an error code that would lead you to the problem-causing sensor. Of course, the reading you get from the diagnostic scanner will be generic since the scanner will be set up for the “universal transmission.” A “universal transmission” is a generic device that covers every vehicle so despite the fact that you have a GM transmission under the hood, it is unlikely you will get more than a generalized error report.

Not to worry, though, because even if the report and error codes are generic, they still point at the area or areas where there are problems. If you want an exacting error printout then you will have to invest some heavy duty funding ($1,999 or so) to purchase a BMW=specific OBD-II scanner and current software update. If you plan to hang onto your BMW for a while then it might be a good idea to purchase a subscription to software updates because you may have to run other diagnostic scans to find out if there are other problems.

In the case of your BMW, I suspect that one of the temperature sensors on the coolant lines may be on the way out. Though it is only just starting up, it is throwing enough of an error across the engine to cause the poor early performance. It might be that a sensor/solenoid pair may be included in the error and if they are then you will have to replace the pair.

Indeed, the heat sensor in the transmission acts like other under-hood temperature sensors. Connected to a solenoid, the sensor waits until a specific temperature before it opens, allowing coolant to circulate through the transmission cooler. If the sensor fails and the solenoid that it fires fails for a few moments, then your transmission will act exactly as you describe. Let me know what happens, if you would?