reinier1

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  • in reply to: 2000 3.3 2wd Frontier Automatic trans prob #658
    reinier1
    Participant

    Hi ta2003pq,

    You do not state the mileage, whether the vehicle had received all scheduled transmission services, if the CHECK ENGINE light is illuminated at any stage, if the problem is worse when the transmission is cold/hot, or if the problem has been getting progressively worse. All of these factors play a role in determining the cause of any transmission problem.

    My guess is that in this case, the issue has more to do with dirty transmission fluid than anything else. However, there are several known causes of this problem, among which a defective Vehicle Speed Sensor is foremost. Nonetheless, I would recommend a transmission fluid flush first- if that does not resolve the problem, have a comprehensive diagnostic check carried out before you start replacing parts in the hope of hitting on the actual cause of the problem by sheer good luck.

    Hope this helps.

    Need a replacement transmission? Quality transmissions are hard to find. Free estimate to your email.

    in reply to: Can’t Afford to Fix My Transmission #657
    reinier1
    Participant

    Hi Admin,
    There are no easy answers to this type of problem, since there are no cheap fixes when it comes to transmission repair. However, a very large number of transmission problems are directly related to the condition of the transmission fluid. Merely replacing the fluid, or even just topping up the levels might resolve some issues with harsh shifting, hesitation on take-off, and similar problems but there are no guarantees on this.

    Hope this helps.

    in reply to: High Pitch Whine When Driving Over 25 Mph #656
    reinier1
    Participant

    Hi Admin,
    This problem has probably been resolved after more than a year, but I have some comments for the benefit of other members with similar problems.
    1.) No transmission should have noises of any kind after having been worked on. Whining noises in particular, are mainly the result of mixing old and new parts that do not mesh well together.
    2.) It happens sometimes that technicians do not replace complete roller or needle bearings when they rebuild a transmission. Using new roller/needle cages on old and worn outer bearing races can cause whining at cetain speeds.
    3.) Transmission noises do not go away by themselves, or by “using it for a while to allow it settle down”- if a newly-worked on transmission is noisy in any way, it is defective in some way, and it must be repaired under warranty conditions.

    Hope this helps.

    in reply to: Rebuilt or New Trans for 2003 Chevy Impala? #655
    reinier1
    Participant

    Hi Admin,
    Finding and correcting the cause of the fluid overheating issue should take precedence in this case. If fluid cooler lines are blocked, it will make no difference to whether a rebuilt or new transmission is fitted, because the fluid overheating issue will destroy either as well.

    However, I would recommend a new transmission as opposed to a rebuilt unit, if by “rebuild” Rick means rebuilding his existing unit. Overheated fluid can literally fuse internal parts together, which means that just about everything in the transmission has to be replaced to avoid any issues in the future, which makes fitting a new transmission the better option from a reliabilty perspective.

    The RPM issue is more likely to be related to engine management system malfunctions than to the transmission, but there is not enough information to venture a diagnosis on this issue.

    Hope this helps.

    in reply to: 2007 Hyundai Accent High RPM and Popping Noise #653
    reinier1
    Participant

    Hi Admin,
    Mike needs to submit more information on the actual model of his car. Popping sounds on turbo diesels are more often than not caused by inlet ducting hoses rupturing, or becoming undone, which will cause poor performance. However the problem is unlikely to be transmission related, but without more information on the model, making even a tentative diagnosis is impossible.

    Hope this helps.

    in reply to: Clunk When Shifting From 3rd to 4th Gear #652
    reinier1
    Participant

    Hi Admin,
    Marks’ transmission guy is right-this transmission has several known issues that range from worn or degraded servo pistons, to defective valve bodies, to fluid passages that get bunged up with sealant during assembly. Since all the software checked out OK, the problem it is unlikely to be electrical. Depending on the actual cause, most mechanical issues also have known remedies which are usually more cost effective than a complete rebuild or replacement.

    Hope this helps.

    in reply to: Flashing Check Engine Light and Car Won't Accelerate #651
    reinier1
    Participant

    Hi Admin,
    Did the engine light go out after you restarted the car, and did it remain off? You do not provide enough information to make a even a tentative diagnosis.

    in reply to: AAMCO $450 non-refundable diagnosis fee? #650
    reinier1
    Participant

    Hi vitesse04s,
    The $450 charge does seem a little steep, but it is standard practice to charge diagnostic fees which are applied to the repair bill if you choose to have the repair done. Diagnostic equipment is very expensive, and a comprehensive check can sometimes take several hours-time that includes test drives, and/or time required for the transmission to cool down before further tests are carried out, but still, $450 sounds excessive.

    However, did they provide you with am itemized list of the required parts, or an estimate on the actual hours needed for the minimum repair? It seems to me you could spend the money more profitably on a rebuilt transmission if the repair shop will not provide you with a firm quote which must include a list of required parts, as well as the number hours required to complete the repair.

    Hope this helps.

    in reply to: 1997 Honda Sedan – Won’t Go Above 30 mph – Code P0715 #649
    reinier1
    Participant

    Hi Iloveicecream,
    This fault code (PO715) means that the Engine Control Unit and/or the Transmission Control Unit receive(s) erratic, or incorrect readings/pulses from the Transmission Input Shaft Speed Sensor.

    In practice this means that the engine is reacting to incorrect inputs received from the transmission, and the low speed is the direct result of the incorrect signals. Possible causes of the incorrect signal could be bad connections, the faiure of the Input Shaft Sensor, damage to the wiring harness, or a leakage to earth.

    A less likely cause is the failure of the interface between the engine and transmision, in which case the replacement of both control units is recommended.

    Hope this helps.

    in reply to: Car Hesitates When Shifting From P (park) to D (drive) #648
    reinier1
    Participant

    Hi Admin,
    Did your car receive all of its scheduled tansmission services?
    This type of issue is usually caused by slippage of the internal clutches, but sometimes also by sticking shuttles in the valvebody. A sticky valvebody can sometimes be freed by the addition of a suitable solvent, but clutch slippages need to be seen to by a transmission specialist.

    Old, dirty,and contaminated transmission fluid eventually forms various gums and varnishes that get deposited on all the internals. The cleaning agents in the new fluid removed some of it, but the issue resurfaced because not all of the old fluid was removed, which means that most of the contaminants were re-deposited on the clutch surfaces. I would recommend a proper service by a transmission specialist to firstly clean out all the gunk, and secondly to adjust the clutches to specs.

    Hope this helps.

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Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)