Car stuck in limp mode BMW X5

This topic contains 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  mstern001 3 months, 3 weeks ago.

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  • #10255

    Sam008
    Participant

    I’m really struggling trying to figure out this problem my car start but moves off in high gear and stays in there through my drive the computer said it was abs pump but after sending it to repair came back with no issues then was told might be the harness cable maybe damage but still having the problem if it’s the harness cable is that connected to the loom if yes how do I go by round or how do I fix this problem. Kind regards

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    #10264

    mstern001
    Keymaster

    The question I have is why didn’t the service facility act on the information it had and repair the problem? Did you authorize the repair? I know that BMWs are incredibly expensive to repair, but I would have thought that if a shop does the diagnostic and gives you the results it should have done the repairs, as well.

    I honestly think I know the answer and it is simply that the shop might be overwhelmed with other work and the amount of time needed to run each line in the loom from source to termination can be enormous. And, even if they were to do the work they might find that by the time they have finished doing the work you would be into a very four-figure repair bill ($2,000-#3,000). So, that I suspect is why the bounced it back to you.

    With that said, though, if you have to do the work, I would start with the solenoids first. The X5 uses a six-speed transmission and that means there are three solenoids tucked up on the valve body, one on the inside and two on the outside. Here’s the way to work this:

    Locate the power leads and their colors at the base or top of the device — there are usually four to six wires per device. Once you have located the color, check for continuity by setting a volt-ohmmeter on the RX1 setting, placing one test probe on the appropriate wire color and terminal on the loom and then placing the other probe on the similarly colored wire and terminal. Be sure the circuit is de-energized or else two things will happen, you won’t get your reading and you will be out a VOM as it will destroy the meter.

    Yes, it will take time and you will have to open up the valve body to get to one of the solenoids and do those tests. However, I suspect when you are finished you will have found the offending wire so you can replace it or find the place where it is worn and chafing or open and you will have repaired it. In doing so, you have saved yourself a whole bunch and fixed the problem. Please let me know what happens so I can share this with others.

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